Classic Lines?

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Classic Lines?

Postby Baxterminator » Thu May 19, 2011 2:07 pm

I'm looking for some new bouldering projects...
what are your favorite problems?
what classics out there shouldn't be missed?

there is still a lot I haven't seen but these are my favs...

Bop Gun
Bull Dog
Jacks Arete
White trash (still working...)
Jamb crack at polly's warm up
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby chameleon » Sat May 21, 2011 6:56 pm

there's a problem out at Crystal Crescent that should be on your tick list
.....i think it's called the 5-Star arete or something like that ----- it's that good!

S
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby betaburgler » Thu May 26, 2011 2:02 pm

straddle struggle - boulder below Polly's warm up
Havana Affair - Joey Ramone
Joe Boxer - Corn & Bung
Capt. Hook - Corn & Bung
Bloodflame - TB Woods
Exciter - Dover
Potted Plant Expert - Scrappy's in LOC
Johny Apple Weed - Laudromat (day late on this one)

So many good problems, such a poor memory :P
Nathan Benjamin
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby patzer » Thu May 26, 2011 4:48 pm

Check out Nouveau Riche - some hard and cool lines there:
Force du Sang and Dynamitus I vote as coolest
Access Denied and Hephalump both get really good reviews, but I've never been there
Tsunami is pretty great too
Tough Sailors is classic, but I imagine that won't be a project for you :)
Grover also has a bunch of seriously aesthetic lines... The Fine Line is probably the most badass looking line I've seen in Nova Scotia!

Congrats on White Trash by the way!
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby patzer » Thu May 26, 2011 4:49 pm

And in memorium:

Randy Savage (may he rest in peace) at Thoughtful Spot looks pretty great.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Baxterminator » Thu May 26, 2011 5:51 pm

cheers Patzer, and a congrats reversal to you for the crushing your granite foes last weekend.
I haven't been to grover or thoughtful spot, I think I owe it to the macho king to get out there.
forgot about force du sang thats a great line.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Baxterminator » Thu May 26, 2011 5:53 pm

Burglar, are you still working Exciter? I got on it last weekend, amazing!
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby betaburgler » Thu May 26, 2011 7:41 pm

Exciter is top of my list on Dover Island. Actually Access Denied is top of my list of projects I want to start working in land. If you ever want to head there let me know it's basically down the street from me.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby patzer » Thu May 26, 2011 8:25 pm

I'd love to get out there soon Nathan.

And a last one for the list: Au Bouleau at Tombstone!
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Scooter » Fri May 27, 2011 7:40 am

And tombstone itself!

Black Beast @ Grover is the best v5 in NS.

There's a 4 at TB Main which is pretty awesome as well.

Adrenaline Junky v6 @ Chebucto

Randy Savage is awesome @ thoughtful, and if you do get out there, be sure to get on Air Ben v5!!! Fun in the sun.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby seanT » Fri May 27, 2011 5:42 pm

Mega Man
Mouse cant stem
Resistance is Futile
Ankle Breaker
Ultima Sit Start
and the all time classic Width of a Circle....

Honestly the list IS endless which just shows you how freaking awsome the bouldering is here in NS.
WORDDDDDD
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby stoneseeker » Fri May 27, 2011 6:43 pm

"Resistance is Futile" ? "Ankle breaker" ??

Where are these? I've never heard of them. Give us the lowdown!

Or is this one of those "it-never-made-it-in-the-book-but-its-awesome-you-gotta-check-it-out!" places that requires hiking through a jungle, swarms of killer mosquitoes in dense swamp, and the rock is 4' tall and covered in lichen???

Not that you would send people on wild goose chases like that, Sean. :roll:
:P
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby seanT » Sat May 28, 2011 7:40 am

Resistance is futile is a sick ass V5 at the Borg Boulders...there are several ***star problems there and one project that is very cool. The approach is easy...go to cheescake boulders...then keep going past cheescake till you are on a ridge...work your way down the ridge towards a lake the boulders are down there. Borg boulder 1 sits on top of some fractured rock and the landings can be less than desirable. boulder # 2 is in the woods..take a saw.
Ankle breaker is past the Ultima area and extremely hard to find. It is V0+ but amazing on par with Orgasmatron in terms of quality,setting, and lighting . You will never find it without a guide. Sorry to be such a tease. I think in the fall I am going to organize Lance Thrusters guided tours to obscure 5star areas ....sign up now. Toddles will be in charge of refreashments and safety.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby stoneseeker » Sat May 28, 2011 1:32 pm

stoneseeker wrote:I think in the fall I am going to organize Lance Thrusters guided tours to obscure 5star areas ....sign up now. Toddles will be in charge of refreashments and safety.


HAH! Toddles would definitely call for a "safety" break and offer his green refreshments I'm sure. :wink:

Call me a sucker, but that sounds like a rockin' old school good time! Make it happen, I would gladly go thrashing into the void with the crazy crew to climb obscure gems anytime.
~ Lukey
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Baxterminator » Mon May 30, 2011 11:28 am

Lance Thrusters eh? I'm in, but only if there are Steve Zissu jump suits and 4 wheelers.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Quinn » Tue May 31, 2011 3:40 pm

Second for Black Beast in Grover as best V5 in the province. Sorry Bop Gun. I also vote Grover as the best mainland bouldering in the province. By far the highest density of boulders and moderate / hard problems. Too bad access to Grover has been lost. Its a shame more people haven't been able to experience it.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Quinn » Tue May 31, 2011 3:45 pm

It takes a little work to crack Grover's secrets, which is probably why it gets overlooked (not beginner friendly). Ironically, the door to bouldering time for Grover is the shortest of any area past prospect once you know your way around.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby smilingrock » Tue May 31, 2011 8:37 pm

What's that about access to Grover being lost?

I would like to add Knobs of Bishop (V7) to the classic list. It's one of those hard to find ones. Also Decepticon on Dover was a lot of fun.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby ben smith » Tue May 31, 2011 11:53 pm

access isn't lost per se but there is a house being built on the old trail, the builders aren't happy about people walking through there, not sure if the owners will be either. It would be useful to bushwack around a bit and try to find a new way in maybe going around the pond on the other side or starting further down the shore.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Baxterminator » Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:36 am

would like to add Knobs of Bishop (V7) to the classic list. It's one of those hard to find ones.


Knobs of Bishop? somewhere in the LOC?
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby patzer » Wed Jun 01, 2011 3:23 pm

Knobs of Bishop is at Skull Rock somewhere..., but I think hard to find, I definitely didn't stumble upon it hiking around up there!

I'd love to check out Black Beast but I think that's also one that kinda needs a guide?
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Brayzer » Wed Jun 01, 2011 8:24 pm

I think there was another path into Grover. We saw a lady hiking when we were there and I'm pretty sure she went in a little before the bus pullout. Might be worth checking out.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby betaburgler » Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:44 am

Black Beast - Lat: 44.484822 N Long: 63.722510 W

I agree that it's a good 5, but I still like Bop Gun a lot better. Probably because Bop Gun is harder for me. Worth the hike and bush whacking.
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby stoneseeker » Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:17 pm

Wait!
Your list is not complete until you have been on the really pure, rad line in Prospect that Mike put up. Its totally classic! :mrgreen:
~ Lukey
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby seanT » Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:43 am

All this talk about classic lines..got me thinking..what defines a classic.
I submit to you "Jizz Lozenge" V3 it is at Crystal crescent. At the piddle paddle puddle area there is a boulder down near the water. The side that faces the ocean is 99% of the time wet or being hit by waves but on that rare sunny low tide day this gem of a problem is climbable. Could be harder than V3 not really sure but it is one of those 4 move power problems that require accuracy, power and perfect conditions(see above). And so every one is clear. the problem starts on this slopey jug with a left foot smear and then explodes with right hand to a tiny slot...match slot...top out...fall off go swimming...HAVE FUN
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Re: Classic Lines?

Postby Zamboni » Wed Jun 08, 2011 2:02 pm

Sean,

The Borg Boulders sound like there around the Nipple. Best way to get to Grover is park at the old fish plant, and paddle over!

Cb.
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