Loose bolt at Surrows.

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Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby pulldown » Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:11 pm

If anyone is heading out to Sorrows any time soon please take a wrench and tighten the first bolt on "All the Rage". When climbing it today i noticed the hanger was spinning. I inspected the bolt and it looked perfectly fine except that the nut was loose. I proceeded to latch onto it with my extremely strong finger and give it a tighten but i was uncertain exactly how much torque was applies.

Thanks

Todd
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Zamboni » Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:26 pm

one full rotation should doo it. You don't want to gull the threads.
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Corniaud » Tue Nov 15, 2011 10:49 am

Bring a torque wrench!

Bolts can be broken easily by overtorquing them!
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Adam » Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:47 pm

Zamboni wrote:one full rotation should doo it. You don't want to gull the threads.


if the bolt was installed properly, and it is just that the nut is now loose, you will need a lot less than a full rotation. little more than finger tight is required at this point. my suggestion is to get some locktite, apply it to the threads where the nut will be when tightened, then tighten to finger tightness and finish with a 1/32nd rotation (or less). you really don't want to over-tighten.
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Rowan » Wed Nov 16, 2011 12:22 am

I recommend, assuming an ambient temperature of between +5 to +15 degress Celcius, an RH less than 85% and the rock being a granodiorite formed c. 380 million years BCA, that the bolt be tightened to 3.0 kgf m (22 lbf ft).
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Corniaud » Wed Nov 16, 2011 7:49 am

Lol!

That's very precise information!
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Nette » Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:27 am

Rowan wrote:I recommend, assuming an ambient temperature of between +5 to +15 degress Celcius, an RH less than 85% and the rock being a granodiorite formed c. 380 million years BCA, that the bolt be tightened to 3.0 kgf m (22 lbf ft).


I thought it was a biotite monzogranite with phenocrysts of alkali feldspar
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Corniaud » Fri Nov 18, 2011 11:29 am

Nette wrote:I thought it was a biotite monzogranite with phenocrysts of alkali feldspar


It changes everything then!

We should recalculate the torque...
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby stoneseeker » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:16 pm

I like clipping to loose bolts. It adds to the adventure -- far more pure man.
don't touch it.
~ Lukey
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby Rowan » Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:24 pm

Nette wrote:

I thought it was a biotite monzogranite with phenocrysts of alkali feldspar

It changes everything then!

We should recalculate the torque...


As long as the phenocrysts are clastically bedded and not suppurating this probably just means an extra .8 to .9 figNewtons of diasporic torque.
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Re: Loose bolt at Surrows.

Postby seanT » Sat Nov 19, 2011 7:50 am

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