ice climbers?

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ice climbers?

Postby rendog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:29 pm

moving to NS and I need people to play with.

mostly I'm looking for iceclimbing partners. I climb WI6+, M8-, all that fun stuff.

I'm moving back east at the end of Nov. email me at rendog@rockclimbing.com
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Postby Fred » Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:55 pm

do you climb WI6+ or lead WI6+ ? :D

just curious
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby rendog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:16 pm

Fred wrote:do you climb WI6+ or lead WI6+ ? :D

just curious


lead...I prefer to be on the sharp end of the rope.
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Postby rendog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:23 pm

Fred wrote:do you climb WI6+ or lead WI6+ ? :D

just curious


lead...I prefer to be on the sharp end of the rope.

Image

that's me on Ice 9 WI6+ canadian Rockies
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Postby mitchleblanc » Mon Nov 15, 2004 9:41 pm

rendog wrote:lead...I prefer to be on the sharp end of the rope.


Ooooooooh! Danger's my middle name...

But seriously, what is MI6+? How hard does it go to?

MI2 was the acronym for a movie, and it was *super* weak, so I'm guessing MI6+ is like.. 5.8?

Don't get me wrong, I'll never climb it, if I can help it; I'm just curious.
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Postby rendog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:37 pm

mitchleblanc wrote:
rendog wrote:lead...I prefer to be on the sharp end of the rope.


Ooooooooh! Danger's my middle name...

But seriously, what is MI6+? How hard does it go to?

MI2 was the acronym for a movie, and it was *super* weak, so I'm guessing MI6+ is like.. 5.8?

Don't get me wrong, I'll never climb it, if I can help it; I'm just curious.




riiiiight just like the movie man
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Postby rendog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 10:43 pm

hey mitch...see the avatar that would be for you there buddy
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Postby martha » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:22 pm

rendog wrote:hey mitch...see the avatar that would be for you there buddy


hey rendog,

you'll get used to Mitch. he's arrogant, and can be a super a$$. but we love him cause he's just so cute. (or that is what we tell him)

don't take him too seriously.

I'm up for ice climbing too when you arrive. where in the valley will you be? and why would you EVER leave the west for the annapolis valley? Don't get me wrong, it is gorgeous..I grew up there. But the climbing is sub-par.
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Postby rendog » Mon Nov 15, 2004 11:35 pm

thanks for the heads up martha...

people like that get under my skin pretty easily.

I'll be out past windsor, and I have wheels, so I'm really keen to get on some of the stuff up in NB and cape d'or. I'm not leaving canmore by choice, I have a grandmother that needs some taking care of, so I've decided to put my life on hold more or less and head down and build up the good karma meter.

I'll be down there around the beginning of Dec.
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Postby martha » Tue Nov 16, 2004 12:21 am

family is a worthy reason for anything. There is ice climbing to be had, but nothing like you are used to.

Windsor is a nice area, and close to the city.

good luck with the move east. :)
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Hmm...

Postby mitchleblanc » Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:11 am

rendog wrote:hey mitch...see the avatar that would be for you there buddy


Hey,

Actually, I was being serious. I have no idea how hard WI6+ is.. I don't even know what that means... Honestly. I'm not even kidding.

As for me being an arrogant ass... I'm not arrogant at all, actually. 'Martha' just says that to piss me off... Me, an ass? Yes. Undoubtedly. But all in good fun man, just teasin'.

ps: recommend you take up bouldering, once you get out here.
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Postby rendog » Tue Nov 16, 2004 3:23 am

noooo worries there man I will be getting into it more than i am now (on a good day it's a v4 sds)

well WI6+ is dead vertical ice for around 45meters with bad ice and crappy pro.

M8- is the rough equivilent to around .12bish (it's kinda realitive)
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Ouch.

Postby mitchleblanc » Tue Nov 16, 2004 6:23 am

rendog wrote:noooo worries there man I will be getting into it more than i am now (on a good day it's a v4 sds)

well WI6+ is dead vertical ice for around 45meters with bad ice and crappy pro.

M8- is the rough equivilent to around .12bish (it's kinda realitive)


Sounds unpleasant at best, but I know how you ice climbers have a skewed view of reality ;) Nice picture anyway. Looks dangerous, yes. I'll leave it to you pros.

As for bouldering buddy, you're in for a treat.. whether you knew it or not, Halifax is a primo destination. There are so many hard problems (easy ones too, I imagine) that you'll be busy for years! Put away those axes and get one of those new fandangled mattress-thingos, and you're good to go!
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Postby rendog » Tue Nov 16, 2004 12:19 pm

Yeha I"ve been down to the LOC a few times on occassion, and I've found a few little areas around my place in the country.

can you believe that I already have a mat, it's with a friend of mine in Bishop right now but I do have one. I think for the time being though, I'm gonna hit up some of the gyms and do some training in there for the winter. Maybe build a nice little woodie out in the back shed. bouldering's cool, man I like it alot, but there's something to be said for pulling down on a 22 pitch rock route straight up... whhhhooooeeeeeee! and even better.... climb 310 meters of frozen water fall....no THAT"S what I"m talking about man.

realistically though, when you think about it...ice climbing isn't really all that dangerous, no more than doing sic highballs with bad landings. just need to know what you're looking at and how to read the ice
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Ice in NS??

Postby Ropeguy » Wed Nov 17, 2004 11:31 pm

Hey Martha,where in NS is there ice climbing?No joking either.I was at MEC a couple weeks ago and purchased some Ice screws and a crampon bag,3 of the employees looked at me like I was on crack,all had the same question.Where is NS can you climb Ice.I'm from NB and not familar at all with NS climbing.Would love to make a few roadtrips this winter.I travel to Halifax for business from time to time,a waterfall would make the trip a little more interesting.
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Re: Ice in NS??

Postby martha » Thu Nov 18, 2004 7:14 am

Ropeguy wrote:Hey Martha,where in NS is there ice climbing?No joking either.I was at MEC a couple weeks ago and purchased some Ice screws and a crampon bag,3 of the employees looked at me like I was on crack,all had the same question.Where is NS can you climb Ice.I'm from NB and not familar at all with NS climbing.Would love to make a few roadtrips this winter.I travel to Halifax for business from time to time,a waterfall would make the trip a little more interesting.


Hey rope guy...check my profile and you'll know I don' live in NS. but I was raised there. :P

sheesh...you'd think you had forgotten who I am or something. I'm truely heartbroken.

seriously.

all kidding aside, I think that there are some waterfalls and other areas that get ice in the winter, but to be honest, I've never ice climbed there. check out the climb nova Scotia site.
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Bouldering Rendog

Postby Zamboni » Thu Nov 18, 2004 8:33 am

Rendog wrote:

Yeha I"ve been down to the LOC a few times on occassion, and I've found a few little areas around my place in the country.

can you believe that I already have a mat, it's with a friend of mine in Bishop right now but I do have one. I think for the time being though, I'm gonna hit up some of the gyms and do some training in there for the winter.

We boulder all winter long. There are a few places you can climb and still be some what worm, just check out the wind direction, and pic the right location.

CB.
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Postby dcentral » Thu Nov 18, 2004 1:38 pm

You can do it -20 if you want. which makes for an interesting time.

For Ice in NS. I'm not sure if the person in charge is going to post on this site but if you check http://www.arborwood.com/awforums/show- ... 047&taid=1 CNS's other messageboard once the ice season starts. They run Ice Days where a bunch of people meet and the head out to differenet locations around the province.
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Postby The Teth » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:42 pm

There is a 20 foot seepage at Gibraltar Rock in the Musquedobit Valley, and a 30 foot fall in Victoria Park in Truro, and a 40 foot ice formation in a quarry in Bedford, but the real ice is along the North Mountain on the Bay of Fundy. All the water on the North mountain drains toward the sea and runs off the 50 to 80 foot cliffs which run the whole length of the North Mountain.

The most accessible is Baxter’s Harbour (~50 feet). Hulls Harbour has a lot of ice (both north and south of the village.) Canada Creek is about 80 feet (I have heard it described as 100 feet, but I have also repelled down it on a doubled up 50m rope, so 80 feet is a more accurate figure.) Check out the photos page at http://www.NovaScotiaClimb.com to see what they look like.

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Oops

Postby Stupid Ropeguy » Thu Nov 18, 2004 10:20 pm

Thanks all for the info,

Martha, Sorry for the not knowing it was you,"Its the Crack" and I have been on Vacation all week so I doubled up on the Crack!! I used to know a girl named Cara who did some climbing in SJ once in a while but I never hear from her anymore.No e-mails no nothing.......Nice to know your still not that far away.Hope all is well!!! :D
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Postby Guest » Fri Nov 19, 2004 3:20 am

The Teth wrote:The most accessible is Baxter’s Harbour (~50 feet). Hulls Harbour has a lot of ice (both north and south of the village.) Canada Creek is about 80 feet (I have heard it described as 100 feet, but I have also repelled down it on a doubled up 50m rope, so 80 feet is a more accurate figure.) Check out the photos page at http://www.NovaScotiaClimb.com to see what they look like.

Teth


hey when are we going to hook up to go climb that "big ice" up in cape d'or?

huh huh huh?
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Postby rendog » Fri Nov 19, 2004 3:21 am

Anonymous wrote:hey when are we going to hook up to go climb that "big ice" up in cape d'or?

huh huh huh?



that was actually me man lmmfao :oops: i forgot to log in
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Ice Climbing

Postby Peter » Sat Nov 20, 2004 9:05 pm

NS ice is largely single pitch, with grades up to WI4. The Fundy coast (Baxter's Harbour, Canada Creek, and Hall's Harbour) offers the most accessible ice to mainland climbers. Near Windsor, something might form around Maitland, sometimes on Blomindon, but I have never climbed in either place, just read internet descriptions. There is ice in Cape Breton, both in the Highlands, further south, and closer to Sydney, but it is too far for a day trip. There is ice near Halifax at Deep Cove, and some quarry ice around town. Cape D'Or has ice, but the coast road in is winding and slow, making it a long day. Moose River, closer to Parsboro, ditto. Not much forms before mid-January, although anything is possible. When it is good, it is accessible, fun, and hard enough for us weekend warriors. Keep an eye out for postings here, as ice climbing is a dish best served in groups of four plus, and posts will appear saying where folks are heading. Bottom line is that there is some decent 60-75 foot ice climbs around, but an overnight trip would be required to get the less accessible stuff, and if you are doing that, why not go to New Brunswick?
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Re: Ice Climbing

Postby Guest » Mon Nov 22, 2004 2:07 am

Peter wrote: Bottom line is that there is some decent 60-75 foot ice climbs around, but an overnight trip would be required to get the less accessible stuff, and if you are doing that, why not go to New Brunswick?


got nooooo problem with that
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Postby Guest » Wed Nov 24, 2004 11:12 am

Get ready for some driving. If you climb WI6+ I imagine you will solo pretty much everything in NS (from what I know anyway). There is one spot in NS thas has some stuff that is undone to my knowledge that would interest you though. Other than that, plan on travelling to NB. St. Martins would be of interest to you. Some pretty stiff lines and many more waiting to be done. Crazy mixed as well but haven't ventured to that. Not sure how well ice bonds to the rock out there or how solid bolts would be and well bolts would last in the salt air. Access (although short) can be difficult due to extreme tides and locating climbs is definitely difficult. Best to go with someone who knows. Little Salmon River and Walton Glen are also excellent in a very rough, remote and beauitiful wilderness area (long access though). Parlee Brook is great but mostly easier routes. Comes in early and stays late though. Check out the NB ice website for an online guide and conditions. http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Rapids/6319/
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