climbing partners/where to top rope

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climbing partners/where to top rope

Postby floyd » Sat Oct 11, 2014 12:44 am

hi guys i just moved to PEI and want to come to nova scotia to climb before the season is over.
does anyone recommend any good spots to top rope/wanna do them with me

I've been told Musquodoboit and Sorrows End are good. Which one is a better climb, how do I get to these places? trailheads? .etc. which one has a more stunning view, and which ones can I back country camp at (preferably with a fresh water source nearby)

thanks for any info guys

-Floyd
floyd
 
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Re: climbing partners/where to top rope

Postby bbell » Thu Oct 16, 2014 10:15 am

So I see no one else has answered so I'll try my best but it's been a few years since I've climbed in NS. I think moreso what you are looking for would be the Mosquodobit area. There's a lot more climbing there.

If I recall Sorrows End is mostly 5.10/5.11 sport with a 5.9 trad route and one or two that you can set anchors on for TR but need a fair amount of sling/cord to do so. There is also some bouldering fairly close to the wall. It is a beautiful spot with distant ocean views, right beside a pond for swimming and nice afternoon sun. A nice place to camp I'm sure. Be aware that the access is supposedly shady here but I think the actual crag is on public land.

Musquodobit has a lot more routes and is closer to you. I've only climbed at G-spot (outdated, rough topo and route info here: http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/access/) but there is another wall - main face as well. Musquodobit is also fairly scenic and has more trees for fall colours, i'm not too sure about the camping potential nearby, G-Spot crag doesnt really offer any.

I'm pretty sure the NS climbing guide has more info on all these areas as well. Hope you find what you're looking for.
bbell
 
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