Chameleon 14a!

It’s sharp....really sharp!

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl, peter, Climb Nova Scotia, Matt Peck

Chameleon 14a!

Postby seanT » Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:29 am

Seeing as how it seems like all the hard boulder problems that dont get repeated have been upgraded over the years I think it only appropriate to upgrade Chameleon to 14a. Which is pretty sweet for Cassinator nice send dude that is some sick flowers. On the topic of unrepeated routes here are a few...so step up !
"For the Moment" (Arete @ Sorrows)uncomfirmed 13b/c FA Dustin Curtis
"Desperado" @ columbus wall unconfirmed 12c(but now after 2 years 13a yeah i crank)FA Sean Therien
Lets add "Transformer" to the list...its been repeated twice but has not been done in I think 3-4 years.
I think if you add "Lost Boys" and any of the sport routes at First Face you will have a pretty stout tick list. So get at er boys(and girls)
The fall season is upon us. Lets see some cranking!!!
ST
seanT
 
Posts: 505
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:39 am

Postby tracstarr » Wed Sep 21, 2005 10:35 am

i accept the challenge.... now, i should probably start climbing again.
User avatar
tracstarr
 
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:26 am
Location: at my desk

Unrepeated

Postby Stevo » Thu Sep 22, 2005 7:08 am

Well if you are talking unrepeated then here are some examples of my efforts:

First Face: Four Minute Smiler
Railway: Northumberland Style
Main Face: Ill Wind, Out of the Doldrums, Veterans Highway
Bow Wall: Bushido
Ship Rock: Jolly Roger

And many more...

Hey but these are not sport routes for boys with 'small racks'
These are for gritty trad men with BIG SWINGING NUTS!

Stevo
Stevo
 
Posts: 314
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:22 am
Location: St. Margarets Bay

Postby seanT » Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:02 am

Yeah sorry Steve nice try but trad routes dont count. Now if they were retrobolted think about that for a sec!You just did like 5 or 6 5.14s on GEAR!!!!I knew you were a madman but geez come on somebody give this guy some props!!!
Seriously those routes are sick and you are a man with BIG steely ones!
Cheers, SeanT
seanT
 
Posts: 505
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:39 am

Postby tracstarr » Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:17 pm

what's this R-A-C-K thing you talk about.... lol. but seriously that does take the big NUTS to climb that flowers....but this retro-bolt you speak of sean.... ;)

JUST KIDDING of course. as soon as i finish and send my new line at Main Face i'll see what I can do on these other sport lines.... probably not much with my lazy ass.
User avatar
tracstarr
 
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:26 am
Location: at my desk

Postby The Mitt » Thu Sep 22, 2005 2:50 pm

Dude don't sell yourself short, you have allot of work ahead of you to send that new route. That thing looks sick.

Mitt
User avatar
The Mitt
 
Posts: 847
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:22 pm
Location: Prospect NS

Postby tracstarr » Fri Sep 23, 2005 8:35 am

speaking of sick. *cough* *cough* ;) ;) Think I might try and go finish the bolts today. Just got to find somone to go with. On that thought, those that develop routes, have you ever gone out alone to just rap and clean/bolt a line or do you always go with someone?
User avatar
tracstarr
 
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:26 am
Location: at my desk

Postby seanT » Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:28 am

usually alone...not much fun watching someone hang and scrub for 2 hours ...so hard to find partners, rap with a gri gri and you will have lots of fun!!
seanT
 
Posts: 505
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:39 am

Postby Fred » Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:51 am

I'd work the moves on self belay first so that you place the bolts in the right spot. Bolting on rappel without climbing knowledge of the route can result in a bad bolt job. Work the route, find the placements (place a big chalk mark), then rap down and place the bolts.

good luck
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby The Mitt » Fri Sep 23, 2005 2:13 pm

I did 90% of the cleaning on deep throat alone. Gave the wife information on where I was and what time to expect me (just in case). The first time I went to a place to clean alone was Cape clear, I don't think I can count how many times I checked my harness to make sure it was on correctly and my anchors were solid.

Mitt
User avatar
The Mitt
 
Posts: 847
Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2004 5:22 pm
Location: Prospect NS

Postby tracstarr » Fri Sep 23, 2005 3:49 pm

cool, thanks guys. yeah, totally hard to find a partner, that's just it. but since i've worked it lots and already know where i want the bolts on this one it should all go smoothly. just the top half to bolt. looks like i'll do it tomorrow, ended up out kitesurfing today for like 4 hours. damn i'm tired. i'll barley have the juice to hike in there and bolt, not going to get the send tomorrow. thanks dudes. let me know if anyone wants to do some more drillin this year :)
User avatar
tracstarr
 
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:26 am
Location: at my desk

Postby jeremy » Fri Sep 23, 2005 5:51 pm

anytime you need a partner keith let me know. This weekend I'm buisy. but next week i'm good to go. Also while you have the drill we can place a few bolts in my project, I think I told you about it before....

jeremy
User avatar
jeremy
 
Posts: 187
Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2004 5:33 pm
Location: oromocto NB

Postby tracstarr » Fri Sep 23, 2005 7:23 pm

sounds good dude. i'm in.
User avatar
tracstarr
 
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:26 am
Location: at my desk


Return to Nova Scotia

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 43 guests