Cape Clear this weekend

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Cape Clear this weekend

Postby john » Tue Sep 27, 2005 10:45 am

I am going to cape clear this weekend for anyone interested, as long as I can find people to go, the weather looks great, there is tons of unclimbed routes and almost none of the existing routes have second ascents.

Hey stoners, you trad climbing bunch from NS, why don't you come along or are you jsut going to continue to let us NB climbers do all the work for you and do all your FA's! hahahahahah

John Bowles
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Postby seanT » Thu Sep 29, 2005 7:05 am

In case you missed John here is the latest update for Cape Clear

Had a rip roaring time at the Cape this weekend!!! Spent sunday with Joe Rossiter ,bolting a new route up the wave wall ground up on lead baby! Very exciting stuff, my feet are still numb from my climbing shoes. The bugs were next to none existant, except at the base of the wall where my ankles were eaten. Easily 50 bites on each leg ouch..... Monday was spent jumaring and cleaning and getting in some more anchors. This line has been a dream of mine since I first saw the wave wall over 2 years ago and it is finally nearing compleation. When done it will be truly awsome at least 3 pitches, spectacular positions on the wall and amazing climbing over and around the biggest roofs on the east coast. The 2 bolt rap station on the boulder on top of the wall will put you 60 m to another rap station which will take you 60 m straight to the base. The raps go over several large roofs so pad your ropes orrrrr shnick! The route stays well right of the orange line in one of the photos posted of the Wave Wall. Tentativly named "Is Wayne Brady gonna have to choke a bitch?" There is still some loose rock that needs to be removed and some anchors that need to be placed. *****please do not get on this line****A it is not fully ready to be climbed and B I have spent days hauling gear, rapping , jumaring dreaming..... and would really like to have the FA off ALL pitches.
Some other information that may be of use to Cape Clear climbers. There is a short cut you can take on a logging road thus avoiding Eygypt road. 3kms after the Red Barn take a right onto a dirt road at the public firing range. This logging road will take you to the big intersection with the main logging road we are normally on after Eygpt road.
I left a 60m static line stashed at the top of the Wave Wall in a US Army duffle bag. Please do not use this line or remove it if you find it. It is mine and I dont want someone else rapping or jugging on it. There is much potential on the left side of the wave wall, ground up!!!The slabs at the base of the wall are quite clean and easy climbing.
Big thanks to Joe R he was to say the least SOLID!
The adventure continues......stay posted
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Postby chameleon » Thu Sep 29, 2005 3:52 pm

Hey John,

Don't mind Sean T., he's just obsessing over that route of his.

Actually, he's trying to enroll me for a trip up there this weekend - which looks like it might happen. I think the plan is to head up early Sat. morning - arrive around lunch time I guess.

Do you have a posse going? Any chance of jumping on a rope with you in the afternoon on Sat? (Sean'll be bolting and will need my belay services on Sunday). I'm quite interested in getting on Jonathan and Becky's line if possible.

I'll be off-line in a few minutes so if you can reach me at 829-3893 if you want. Otherwise, maybe I'll see you up there on Saturday.

-Sean C.

Hey Mike D (International Man of Mountaineering and General Mayhem), we might need your help in bringin' down the house at Cape Clear, that is if you don't have a different rave to go to?!
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Postby mike » Thu Sep 29, 2005 6:10 pm

I believe that I'm on a flight to NF early Saturday morning. Headed to the lovely Grand Banks- my least favorite place on the whole planet.
I'll know more tomorrow evening about that whole gig. I've got my fingers crossed on it not happening.
If for whatever reason it falls through- I'm in.

Mike
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Postby Fred » Thu Sep 29, 2005 7:49 pm

are you guys talking about the bolted line up the middle of Wave Wall? We sent that on our last visit. :wink:
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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