An entirely stolen topic idea...

It’s sharp....really sharp!

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An entirely stolen topic idea...

Postby Nate » Wed Oct 19, 2005 6:11 am

While we're at...favorite trad climbs....and crappiest, chossiest, dirtiest, most disgusting trad climbs you've ever done(they make better stories)

Enchantment at Main Face, proudest line i've ever done(boulder problems included)

crappiest line, Rockin' Choss Pile(5.6/7??) at Prospect....the name discribes it best...gross

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Postby martha » Wed Oct 19, 2005 8:06 am

Favorite Trad line:

I hate this question cause I have so many. but for pure climbing movement, I really liked the climb 'Dash of Fall Memeory 5.7' (welsford) This line is stunning, but unfortunately only about 25 feet long. So the crach is short lived. Too bad it weren't a full pitch!

For pure enjoyment though 'It's a way of life 5.4' (Welsford) and 'Wafer Step 5.5' (Bar Harbour)

Chossiest Trad line: Fred and I did the FA on a line we called 'Death Trap 5.8' (welsford). I think that explains enough.


I don't want to put routes that I haven't led, or been an FA on, BUT... if I did, then most epic would go to 'Epinephrine 5.9' (Red Rocks)

As for favorite over all.....it changes every day!! ehehe
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If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
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Postby seanT » Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:46 am

another good thread indeed
proudest trad line Live Free or Die 5.9+ in the Adirondacks scary pumpy usually top roped due to the nasty ground fall potential....did it over 13 years ago and can still remember how psyched I had to get to do it.
nastiest line trad wise .....I dont really have any as I dont get on routes that look like flowers. I would say least enjoyable moment on a trad line was in Tennesee when i had to squeeze myself into a little pod/cave halfway up a route and pull up the rope and shiver while a massive electrical and rain storm raged up the gorge. Not much fun seeing as how it was the first route of our trip.
Peace out!!!
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Postby martha » Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:10 am

speaking of little pod/cave....

That witches something or another route in Clifton was Rad. Fred wasn't the biggest fan of getting into that Slot, but Damn, I loved it.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
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Postby granite_grrl » Wed Oct 19, 2005 12:34 pm

One of my proudest gear climbs was Butterfingers at Mt Nemo, Ontario this year. Hopped on it thinking that I'd do the 5.7 variation, got up half way to where I thought the climb splits, and found out that I had already done the 5.9 bottom! I sacked up and did the 5.9 top too.

Makes me proud because it was my first solid, no bolts, 5.9 lead.

Worst line....could possibly been BeeHive (5.5 or 5.6) at the Daks. Run out, lots of ledges, some damp sections, lichon, and we got off route. I got to do the last pitch, which basically consisted of a vertical bushwack. I found very little gear, but figured if I fell there was enough vegitation that it would snag my rope/hurt my body before gear would have done me any good.
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Postby mathieu » Fri Oct 21, 2005 7:18 pm

This summer has been really good in terms of gear routes so its hard to pick one. And really its mostly the story and situations that made them memorable.

Good Alpine rock: the North Face of HaLing. Its not hard technically but at 10+ pitches it makes for a long day on rock and that's when you notice if you move efficiently with your partner. I've been so intimidated by Haling for years that finally doing it was really rewarding. Deciding to do this route the night before and swapping leads with my new "partner" made it extremely rewarding.

Image

Chossy alpine rock: MT Blane in K country, this was just a nightmare, a club outing where I didn't know one person and suddenly we are short ropping and our middle person is really not confortable. The decent was the horror show with this same person taking 30min to rap 60metres and we were running out of daylight. At least the flowery rock prevented us from actually pitching it out which probably prevented us from spending the night on the ridge.
Image

I just got back from Skaha where my best gear line is a toss between Double Exposure and Black WIdow. Both had great gear and were just fun too climb.

Shittiest crag gear climb is a hard one. Nothing really stands out so maybe I haven't met my nemesis. :twisted:
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Postby mathieu » Fri Oct 21, 2005 7:21 pm

Wow I really can't use this computer thingy, my images are just not displaying. Oh well click if you want they aren't my images.

[url=http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/photo_link.pl/p/photo_id__179242__object_id__375__type__mountain__mountain_id__375__route_id____user_id____order_by____limit__]
Ha Ling [/url]

MT Blane
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Postby Fred » Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:45 pm

Mat, use the edit feature to go back and fix your links. :wink:
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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