Finger pocket Hell

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Finger pocket Hell

Postby dquinn » Mon Oct 31, 2005 8:17 pm

Blew a frigging tendon in a frigging shallow ass 2-finger pocket!! frig frig frig! Route setting comment: avoid shallow pockets on the 45 wall or set some god damn feet! frig! And for the record, I didn't say frig, the frigging forum changed my frigging post. frig frig frig frig frig.
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Postby Andrew » Tue Nov 01, 2005 8:16 am

OUCH. I fell off the NBCC wall while bouldering around and my middle and ring fingers were still stuck inside a pocket when I fell. Terribly bruised the wrist area where the cords for those fingers congrigate. It was useusable for a few months, but I just kept climbing, avoiding those fingers :P
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Postby mitchleblanc » Tue Nov 01, 2005 10:49 am

Although at the comp, we did generally avoid small pockets.. I don't think it's fair to blame route-setters for blowing your own tendons...........!
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Postby cooper » Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:07 pm

bummer dave
but still it is a risk we take when climbing
if u come across sumtin like that and u dont wanna risk it then come down
and dave for u own good i am tellin u not to climb on it :wink: :wink:
-Ryan
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Postby dquinn » Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:36 pm

mitchleblanc wrote:Although at the comp, we did generally avoid small pockets.. I don't think it's fair to blame route-setters for blowing your own tendons...........!


frig that, I'm sueing. :twisted: haha, kidding. I'm not blaming the route setter, but I am suggesting that they avoid such devises in the future. It is not the pocket that blew my tendon. It's the shallow pocket on an overhanging wall with no feet that required nearly all of my weight in a cross over movement. I learned my lesson, but what about the person who climbs after me? It was a competition route, so it's all about the big points. On a positive note, I stuck the finish, but I fell off *shnap* after my tendon went.
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Postby Fred » Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:38 pm

did you catch yourself with your tendon while falling?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby dquinn » Tue Nov 01, 2005 6:35 pm

Fred wrote:did you catch yourself with your tendon while falling?


No. I was crossing over with one hand in the pocket and poor feet. virtually all my weight was on the shallow pocket during the cross. I hit the finish hold solid when I felt pain rip down my forarm from my ring finger to the elbow. I held on after the pain (going for the send :) ), but my left hand went limp and I fell. The injury definetly came first. I had done the move in isolation 2 minutes earlier. I must have pulled akwardly and too hard that time. I have full mobility of the finger, but if I put the smallest amount of weight on it, I have sharp pain all the way down my forearm to the elbow. It is worst near the wrist and elbow.
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Postby dquinn » Tue Nov 01, 2005 6:40 pm

It was a little pocket, a good lip, big hole, but tips only. Could get a real nice pull on it. 2 fingers max. A nasty peice of work. There is no way I could have gotten a finger stuck, too shallow.
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Postby dquinn » Tue Nov 01, 2005 6:51 pm

I asked a med student and got a good reply:

"Sounds like you ripped a muscle. From what you say, it sounds like it's not a
complete rip because you can still voluntarily move the finger under its own
force (if you cannot move the finger under its own force then it's a complete
rip). It would make sense that the pain increases with exertion since muscle
activity increases with exertion. Also, muscles in your elbow going to your
fingers go throught the carpal tunnel and if they're inflammed, you'll
feel the
pain first in the wrist - because it's an enclosed space.
OR, it could be a tendon rip. From what you say, it's hard to tell if
the ripped
tendon is in your finger, or in your elbow. The radiation pattern (starts in
finger, moves to elbow) suggests that the tear is in the finger, but I'm not
sure what other features would help differentiate it. It's nothing some ice can't heal"

I'm voting for ripped muscle. Beats a tendon injury. I'll get it checked out.
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Postby Fred » Tue Nov 01, 2005 9:23 pm

the key to not getting injured on pockets is to completely avoid dynamic movement. Whether it's throwing to a pocket or catching yourself on the way down. If a foot cuts loose or you miss a dead point let go completely because you'll rip something if you catch yourself while coming down.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby dquinn » Tue Nov 01, 2005 11:21 pm

Fred wrote:I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there


Yeah, but the sending temps are way off. It would be super greasy.
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Postby ben smith » Wed Nov 02, 2005 10:38 am

dave which gym was it at dude (not trying to blame anyone but if it was at dal i'll take the route down) try buddy taping the hurt finger to the finger next to it for support and climb on big jug hauls or balancy slabs to get blood flowing to the finger agian
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Postby Andrew » Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:03 pm

Glad to hear it's most likely not a tendon. Sounds similar to what happened to me. Should heal in a month tops.


dquinn wrote:I asked a med student and got a good reply:

"Sounds like you ripped a muscle. From what you say, it sounds like it's not a
complete rip because you can still voluntarily move the finger under its own
force (if you cannot move the finger under its own force then it's a complete
rip). It would make sense that the pain increases with exertion since muscle
activity increases with exertion. Also, muscles in your elbow going to your
fingers go throught the carpal tunnel and if they're inflammed, you'll
feel the
pain first in the wrist - because it's an enclosed space.
OR, it could be a tendon rip. From what you say, it's hard to tell if
the ripped
tendon is in your finger, or in your elbow. The radiation pattern (starts in
finger, moves to elbow) suggests that the tear is in the finger, but I'm not
sure what other features would help differentiate it. It's nothing some ice can't heal"

I'm voting for ripped muscle. Beats a tendon injury. I'll get it checked out.
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Postby dquinn » Fri Nov 04, 2005 3:56 pm

Final word: Riped my flexor digatorum - I'll be off for a month.
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Postby The Teth » Mon Nov 07, 2005 2:24 pm

Instead of taking a month off, you may just want to duct tape your hand behind you back (to avoid temptation) and climb one handed. You will be amazed at how much it improves your dynamic movement and balance. I only took five days off when I broke my arm.

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Postby martha » Mon Nov 07, 2005 8:31 pm

good call Teth,

It really makes your footwork and flagging and body tension better too because you really have to think about how not to barn door or slam into the wall ungracefully to move to every single hold.

Great idea!
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