Climbing Training

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Climbing Training

Postby Zach Taylor » Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:39 pm

Hey, What does everyone do for climbing specific training? I'm interested in hearing new/different ideas to add to my training.

Thanks
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Brian! » Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:03 pm

I always found that the best way to work your climbing muscles is to climb more. I'm hesitant to do pull ups and a like, because it puts strain on my fingers which I would rather abuse on the climbing wall. That's my process, but I am pretty terrible climber...

However, I do exercises that work my non-climbing muscles to avoid joint imbalances such as exercising the tops of my forearms to avoid wrist pain.
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Murph » Wed Mar 09, 2011 8:58 pm

I know some people will likely disagree, however I find slacklining helpful for climbing. Slacklining all about being aware of your center of gravity and is very applicable towards climbing. If you can fine tune your COG, it will make climbing easier and in turn, you can climb harder.
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby theriault » Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:20 pm

Climb Ice.... it helps to grow Balls!
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Dom » Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:57 pm

Climbing is such a complex discipline. I also find the best way to train is to try and get out as much as much as possible. That way you develop specific muscles/tendons, you develop technique and also develop the mental aspect of climbing. I find this last aspect might be the most important. (depending on the route)
No sense in doing pull-ups everyday if every time you are 20' feet off the deck you over grip like mad.

So I would say the best thing you could do to train your mental is go to a sport climb with a clean fall and take repeated lead falls. If you're really afraid of taking them, start by taking the fall with the bolt at your shoulders, then at your waist, then at your feet. etc.

I realize you were probably talking more about muscle training but don't underestimate the mental training...unless you top rope.
My opinion.

Some call the mental aspect: balls!

theriault wrote:Climb Ice.... it helps to grow Balls!


hehe :mrgreen:

As for muscle training, every 2 weeks or so when I do use my training board, I put my harness with 4 nalgenes tied to it to add weight before I do pull-ups, hangs, etc.
Core training is also very good...

Technique comes with mileage on the rock.

Rock season is coming very soon with all this awesome mild weather and rain!! :D
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Brian! » Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:07 pm

theriault wrote:Climb Ice.... it helps to grow Balls!

I wish I could give a gold sticker for that response.
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Zach Taylor » Thu Mar 10, 2011 1:09 am

Thanks everyone!


Dom wrote:Rock season is coming very soon with all this awesome mild weather and rain!! :D



I'm hoping in the next few weeks... Hopefully enough snow has melted now that there won't be too much water running on warmer days :)
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Dom » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:18 am

I'm hoping in the next few weeks... Hopefully enough snow has melted now that there won't be too much water running on warmer days :)



Hey Zach, although Hampton is probably the worst established place to climb in NB in terms of rock quality, I'm 95% sure its good to go now. The cliffs are kind of detached from the hill, and the sun bakes them all day.

Over there, Lunchbox is a good route! Physical graffiti is also not bad...IMO.

Last year people made rock updates to say which crag or which area of a crag were good to go in early Spring. Kind of like ice conditions except for rock hehe. This should be repeated this year.
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Zach Taylor » Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:27 am

Dom wrote:
Hey Zach, although Hampton is probably the worst established place to climb in NB in terms of rock quality, I'm 95% sure its good to go now. The cliffs are kind of detached from the hill, and the sun bakes them all day.



I like the sound of that, I'm pretty sure there's some sunny days coming up too.. I wouldn't be too worried about rock quality this time of year, just as long as I'm climbing :D
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby *Chris* » Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:43 am

Zach,

One thing you should be aware of on the first warm & sunny days of the spring is rockfall and icefall. I'm not familiar with Hampton but I'd be cautious of anywhere with a talus field. Just remember to bring a helmet. Have fun.

... as for the original question my training regime consists of a winter on the couch eating chips and drinking beer. Watch as many Chris Sharma / David Graham movies as you can. Convince yourself that they have no real skillz and that power makes up for shoddy footwork. Be sure to order new gear every once in a while. You'll be all set for spring!
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Outdoorsmack » Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:06 pm

Any talk about any leagues, groups, individuals or gyms putting on any courses this spring? (i.e. top rope, lead, etc....) Sort of your basics for newbies into the sport or those who don't get out often enough to keep their skills at the top of their game.
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Greg » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:32 am

Climbing itself should be a focus of your training but having a good overall fitness base will help you a great deal. Cardiovascular endurance, muscular strength, muscular endurance and flexibility are all very important and you should train all these parameters. Running, biking, hiking, swimming are great for cardio. For strength and endurance good old fashion pushups, crunches, pull-ups, chin-ups and any other exercise where you can use your own body weight for resistance and crank them out almost anywhere happen to be. Pilates is great training as well. Until not too long ago I scoffed at yoga. I thought it was a waste of time – boy was I wrong. Yoga will work your core like nobody’s business and it resembles the movement patterns of climbing a route more than say a typical strength workout would. Two other factors to consider in any program are nutrition and rest. If you are not getting the proper amounts of each of these your climbing will likely not improve or improve as much.
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby *Chris* » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:50 am

Greg wrote:blah blah blah blah.... Two other factors to consider in any program are nutrition and rest.

I thought I'd already covered this point Greg.
*Chris* wrote:... my training regime consists of a winter on the couch eating chips and drinking beer.
:wink:
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Joe » Tue Mar 15, 2011 8:36 am

Cheapest hangboard in the world - a 2x4 nailed over a doorframe (like inside a closet). 10 pullups & 30 sec hang x 3, progressing to 4. Do 3/4 times a week for the rest of your life. Combine with hanging knee raises and pushups.
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Greg » Tue Mar 15, 2011 9:37 am

*Chris* wrote:
Greg wrote:blah blah blah blah.... Two other factors to consider in any program are nutrition and rest.

I thought I'd already covered this point Greg.
*Chris* wrote:... my training regime consists of a winter on the couch eating chips and drinking beer.
:wink:


You are way too hard core for me dude :lol:
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Re: Climbing Training

Postby Murph » Fri Mar 18, 2011 1:18 pm

Chris, sounds like you and I have the same personal trainer!
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
Matt Segal, The sharp end
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