Shoe Info Request

Lost gear? Selling? Donating? Questions?

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

Shoe Info Request

Postby Ken P » Sun Oct 22, 2006 2:59 pm

Has anyone tried, the 5.10 Galileos? Is there any major differences from the Anasazis (velcros)? Also, Montrail Wasabis? Getting close to buying a new pair of shoes. Thanks!
User avatar
Ken P
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:45 am

Postby martha » Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:52 pm

Hi Ken,

The Anasazi Velcros have a different last thus the shape and symmetry are different, they have a different heel cup and a bit more features. For example they have two pull loops on the heels to the Galelio's one.

hope this helps.

Cara
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby ben smith » Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:29 pm

the wasabis are the biggest lumps of turd ever created and marketed as a "climbing shoe". the velcro blows, the rubber blows, the shoe itself blows- the heels are slightly less of a pile of flowers than the rest of the shoes and are still crappy- wore through them in less than a week- DO NOT BUY THEM!!
ben smith
 
Posts: 508
Joined: Fri Apr 15, 2005 7:03 pm

Postby Ken P » Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:51 pm

The heel cup is the only thing I did not like about the Anasazis. At first they dug into my achilies, but stretched into comfort very quickly (or tolerance). From what I have been reading 5.10 has corrected the heel cup. To date the Anasazis have been my favourite shoes.

Whew! I found a pretty good buy on the Wasabis at EMS, and was seriously considering a pair after the reviews. Glad to hear the results first hand. Thanks to all.
User avatar
Ken P
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:45 am

Postby Fred » Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:34 pm

the anasazi velcro is not at all a comfortable shoe in my opinion. I was a long time supporter of the anasazi velcro until recently when I purchased a pair LaSportiva Miuras. They fit awesome straight out of the box. I always heard people complain about the rubber on LaSportivas is not as good as 5.10 rubber. IT'S TRUE and very obvious the first time you put them on.

sorry I can't really answer your question Ken. Guess I just wanted you to know that you should also consider LaSportiva if comfort is on the top of your list. I too had problems around my achilles tendons with my anasazi velcros but now it's a thing of the past. The down side, just a bit less smear security.

check out http://www.lacordee.com since they often have great deals on shoes

cheers
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Ken P » Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:55 pm

Fred,

Is there a velcro generic for the Miuras? What about sizing? I'm a 42 in the Anasazis which is a 1 sz down from my street shoe. My first Anasazis were sized down 1.5 and my middle toes have a permanant twist outwards.

I'm a little bias with the velcros (or lazy). I don't mind sizing a bit tighter with the velcros, with the easy on off.

Thanks
User avatar
Ken P
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 10:45 am

Postby Fred » Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:00 pm

I would recommend the LaSportiva Katana's then. I haven't tried them yet but hope to get a pair soon. Tons of people are climbing in them at our gym and no complaints. I don't know if they fit as nice out of the box as the Miuras but I'm sure it's better than the 5.10 velcros.

They DO NOT size the same at all. Go seek Mike Davis at Radical Edge in Fredericton and he can hook you up. Try on a several sizes and go from there. Their prices are same as everyone, no shipping and you can try them on.

cheers
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby martha » Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:05 pm

Ken,

I have worn about 7 pairs of anasazi velcros plus 2 or 3 pairs of womens sapphires, a pair of 5.10 dragons (old school velcro ones) and a pair of moccasyms in there too. Anyways, I just bought (on friday) the La Sportiva Katana's (womens) and they fit great out of the box. I did not buy them as tight as I wear my anasazis as they don't stretch as much. I wore them all day for the UNB comp and they were awesome.

Fred is right though, the rubber isn't near as sticky as the 5.10 rubber. I notice it all the time with my smearing. Otherwise I am really happy.

Definately go to the radical edge. They are awesome there and carry 5.10 and La Sportiva.

Cheers.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....


Return to Gear

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 34 guests

cron