Whats everybodys take on this!

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Whats everybodys take on this!

Postby Zamboni » Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:18 pm

Anybody ever used / seen one of these?

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 1893749430

Can anybody provide reviews?

CB.
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Postby The Mitt » Thu Oct 26, 2006 5:46 pm

They talk about it on RC.com mixed reviews. I don't like the fact that it has a non-removable hanger. I would go with the ones at MEC.

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Postby Fred » Thu Oct 26, 2006 11:20 pm

it's twice the price of the standard set-up and it's non-removable. Also, you'll waste more battery power drilling 12mm holes.

some of the Petzl stuff that is completely removable including stud is worth the extra coin if you can swing it but this isn't one of them.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Postby chossmonkey » Sat Dec 23, 2006 8:13 am

Being non-removable is one of the big reasons someone would want to use this type of bolt. It is pretty much tamper proof. Some areas have problems with non-climbers, rappellers, and over zealous bolt choppers removing hardware.

They don't require a wrench for installation. It could be argued that because of their shorter length you would remove the same amount of rock as a longer bolt of a thinner diameter. Because of the shorter length they are only good for the hardest rock. This type of bolt also puts a huge amount of pressure on the rock surrounding the hole and in soft or brittle rock the pressure can fracture/dinner plate the rock over time.

They are a specialty bolt, in the right situation their advantages out weigh their short comings.





On a side note, I am curious about the removablility of any of Petzl's bolts. Hangers can be removed, but a stud bolt is a stud bolt. Short of being placed in soft rock and working the bolt out of the hole the only other way I know of would be to drill another hole along side the stud, still leaving a hole that is unusable and must be patched.
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Postby Murph » Mon Dec 25, 2006 11:27 pm

Something I came across .... figure 5
http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/mechbolts.htm
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
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