notchless ovals

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notchless ovals

Postby Adam » Thu May 31, 2007 12:33 pm

anyone know of a good non-locking, notchless oval biner? i want to rack my nuts on them.
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Postby Murph » Thu May 31, 2007 5:54 pm

Actually, I just purchased Petzl’s Owall notch-less oval about 30 minutes before reading this post. I plan on using it for setting up a slack line in my backyard. (<-> 24Kn, Crossload 10Kn, Open 7Kn) … If that’s any help?
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Postby mathieu » Thu May 31, 2007 6:33 pm

The problem with racking your nuts on an oval is that you grab the damn biner and its you can't tell which end will open by looking at it, you have to actually grab it, I prefer non symetrical biners. I use lucky notcheless biners. But your post was asking about notchless ovals and really the petzle is the only one i've found.
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Postby Adam » Thu May 31, 2007 10:45 pm

k will look at the petzl. symmetry fixed with some paint or tape :)

thanks
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Postby Adam » Thu May 31, 2007 11:03 pm

http://www.acmeclimbing.com/browseprodu ... Owall.HTML

asymmetric if you count the gate pin :)

ryan, where'd you get these? MEC doesn't carry em.
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Postby granite_grrl » Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:15 am

mathieu wrote:The problem with racking your nuts on an oval is that you grab the damn biner and its you can't tell which end will open by looking at it, you have to actually grab it, I prefer non symetrical biners. I use lucky notcheless biners. But your post was asking about notchless ovals and really the petzle is the only one i've found.


I find I have the same problem. I use to have some nice big asymetrical biners for my nuts, but I have somehow ended up with ovals on there now. I figured I'd give it a good go using the oval before I get rid of it 'cause most people seem to prefer racing their nuts that way.

Thge Petzl is also the only nochless one I've seen. I'm also a little hessitant to rack my wires on nochless, just seems that it would be way easier to accidently dump them off the biner.
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Postby Andrew » Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:29 am

For racking my nuts, I like the notched biners and I also hate them! Crazy huh?

Love because: I almost dumped my nuts from 75' up, but the notch caught the nuts

Hate because: harder to quickly remove a sling from them.

I do have the Petzl Oval OK locking biners. I love those.
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Postby granite_grrl » Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:45 am

Andrew wrote:For racking my nuts, I like the notched biners and I also hate them! Crazy huh?

Love because: I almost dumped my nuts from 75' up, but the notch caught the nuts

Hate because: harder to quickly remove a sling from them.

I do have the Petzl Oval OK locking biners. I love those.


Guess that's what I don't get, the racking biner doesn't really get loaded and the notch doesn't really snagged on anything (btw, I do love nochless on all my draws to avoid this). On the gear loop, off the gear loop. On the gear sling, off the gear sling......
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Postby Adam » Fri Jun 01, 2007 10:24 am

granite_grrl wrote:Guess that's what I don't get, the racking biner doesn't really get loaded and the notch doesn't really snagged on anything (btw, I do love nochless on all my draws to avoid this). On the gear loop, off the gear loop. On the gear sling, off the gear sling......


i snag the wire loops on the nuts on the notch, and on my gear loops, so i will just be careful not to drop them when i have the gate open.

i'm surprised that there's only one manufacturer making notchless non-locking ovals...

and on that point, why aren't ALL companies doing away with notched biners?? is there any real/rational reason in continuing to make them???
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Postby martha » Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:12 am

My guess it that most companies have molds set for the biners and it is expensive to replace them all.
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Postby granite_grrl » Fri Jun 01, 2007 11:46 am

Could it be a patent issue as well? I know when I first started climbing the only nochless biners you could get were the spirits. Luckey had some, but I was told they had problems with Petzl over patents.

The DMM nochless wiregates are pretty cool, but I don't like the feel of them. I'm thinking of getting one or two and see if its something I can get used to, but I don't think I would ever use them on the rope end of my draws (I really don't like how they clip).
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Postby martha » Fri Jun 01, 2007 5:46 pm

some of those biners are so tiny too. I'm a sloppy clipper... sad I know...but I need room for my fingers in those biners please.. especially since a lot of them go ice climbing to and get used with gloves on!

I see the need for notchless with a rack of nuts though. It really irks me when my nuts get stuck on the notch...... :lol:
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Postby Murph » Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:03 pm

trad_reborn wrote:ryan, where'd you get these? MEC doesn't carry em.

I picked it up at the Trail Shop on Quinpool. I grabed the last one off the shelf so you might want to give them a call.
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
-"Cause this is way more bitch!n'"
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Postby Matt Peck » Sun Jun 03, 2007 12:25 pm

I rack my tapers on an old bd oval, the gate side of which is noticably different. I chose to use the oval as it was a large diameter biner, and I only use one biner for my tapers. Also, the oval is the most useful biner in a rescue scenario (creating a pully system, etc) and racking tapers was the most inconspicuous place to store it in the meantime, as I don't want the extra weight.
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Postby Richard Eh! » Sun Jun 03, 2007 9:26 pm

Hey Mat did you leave a cordelette at the bottom up in L Shape last weekend? In the vicinity of Light Fandango...
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Postby Matt Peck » Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:37 am

Hmm. I dont think so Richard, I was over at the base of Catholic Girls for a bit, and down on exfoliated. Shawn B has the same kind of cordlette.
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