top rope anchor question

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top rope anchor question

Postby Ryan_woods » Thu Aug 20, 2009 5:02 pm

I just have a quick question about rigging a top rope anchor using a piece of cord, I was wondering If using a piece of cord that wasn't tied into a cordelette was just as safe as using one that was. say for example you were anchoring from 2 solid bolts and tied a clove hitch with fishermans on each one and ran the master point out to where it was safe and equalized and took a bight of both strands and tied a figure 8 so that you had 2 loops to clip into. I tried this in the backyard and it seemed to look safe and redundant to me but I decided to ask and maybe someone a little more experienced (probably everyone haha) could correct me if it doesn't sound quite right or let me know if it's good to go. Thanks. :)
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby chossmonkey » Thu Aug 20, 2009 7:11 pm

Do you have pictures?
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby Burley » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:40 pm

I would say no to clove hitching rap rings for an anchor. Cord is cheap and so are slings. Spend and live.

I wouldn't use clove hitches for sure, but I would use figure eights (as you would when you tie into your harness) on the rings and then figure eight on the master point for redundancy. Seems a bit time consuming for the sake of two lockers and $3 of cord.

I'll give you two lockers and some slings if this is your only option to climb on. Email me.
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby Burley » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:50 pm

Maybe you should come climbing for a day with me (or someone else) and consider the UNB safety session this fall. Both would be helpful for sure.

I would gladly take you out for a day and teach you what you want to learn. I'm a wanker, I smell funny, and I sometime forget to lock my biners, but I can show you a bomber anchor.
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby *Chris* » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:59 pm

Burley wrote:I would say no to clove hitching rap rings for an anchor. Cord is cheap and so are slings. Spend and live.

I wouldn't use clove hitches for sure, but I would use figure eights (as you would when you tie into your harness) on the rings and then figure eight on the master point for redundancy. Seems a bit time consuming for the sake of two lockers and $3 of cord.

I'll give you two lockers and some slings if this is your only option to climb on. Email me.
^^^ What this guy said... whoever he is :wink: ^^^

I wouldn't trust the free hanging tails that would be on each clove hitch... fig8's are the knot to use. Although building an anchor from 2 retraced and equalized figure 8's on bolts would be a bit ridiculous it is SRENE. You might use a setup like that on a pair of mediocre trees I guess... assuming you've got nothing else at your disposal.
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby *Chris* » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:01 pm

Burley wrote:Maybe you should come climbing for a day with me (or someone else) and consider the UNB safety session this fall. Both would be helpful for sure.

I would gladly take you out for a day and teach you what you want to learn. I'm a wanker, I smell funny, and I sometime forget to lock my biners, but I can show you a bomber anchor.
^^^ all true ^^^
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby Ryan_woods » Fri Aug 21, 2009 2:42 pm

Thanks guys, I think I'll just stop and pick up some longer webbing or cord so I can tie a loop or cordelette and clip in with that and take both strands and tie a figure 8 for my master point. keep it simple stupid, right?

Burley wrote:Maybe you should come climbing for a day with me (or someone else) and consider the UNB safety session this fall. Both would be helpful for sure.

I would gladly take you out for a day and teach you what you want to learn. I'm a wanker, I smell funny, and I sometime forget to lock my biners, but I can show you a bomber anchor.
lol I might take you up on that.
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby Burley » Fri Aug 21, 2009 9:16 pm

I'm going to get out for a day next week. Call me at 470-6558.
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Re: top rope anchor question

Postby Matt Peck » Fri Aug 28, 2009 11:32 am

Fastest Safe Anchor setup for two rap rings: Take a 120 cm sling or cord, Girth hitch the first rap ring, and then clip the other end to the second ring with a locker. direct, equalize and tie your eight. Slap 2 lockers Opposite and opposed. Done.
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