New Rope

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New Rope

Postby Fred » Thu Mar 04, 2010 6:15 pm

I'm looking for a new rope.

Has anyone heard good or bad review on the Petzl Fuse 9.4mm?

Any other recommendations?
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Rope

Postby granite_grrl » Thu Mar 04, 2010 6:53 pm

We got this rope this winter. It's pretty stiff considering how thin it is. Slippery as all heck too. Because of this, and it's diameter, you don't want to use a very worn Grigri with it either. Even with our newer Grigri there was a fair bit of slippage after it locks up.

I'm happy with it as an ice rope, but I'm not sure how I'd feel about if I was out sport climbing, etc. Nathan will have to answer how it's continued to wear over the last few weeks because I've been out of commission and haven't been getting out.
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Re: New Rope

Postby chossmonkey » Thu Mar 04, 2010 7:54 pm

New Grigri works fine. Old grigri is better than an ATC, but it will slip some. I hate belaying with it and an ATC.


Its getting a lot of fuzz already considering it has only been winter use. Hasn't fallen apart yet.
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Re: New Rope

Postby Shawn B » Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:15 am

Fred wrote:I'm looking for a new rope.

Has anyone heard good or bad review on the Petzl Fuse 9.4mm?

Any other recommendations?


Mammut infinity 9.5 duodess. $ but worth it. Nicest rope ever used.

From my research last year petzl ropes do not get good reviews.
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Re: New Rope

Postby Fred » Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:16 pm

I had a few bad experiences with Mammut so I was turned off them for a while. I'm wondering if I should give it a try again. You like yours Shawn? I might give it a go.

It was the Galaxy duodess I had problems with.
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Re: New Rope

Postby Matt Peck » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:43 pm

petzl ropes suck. They fuzz super fast. I wore my 9.8 nomad out in half a season of moderate use. Red fuzz over every rock it touched. and they're expensive to boot. Spend your money elsewhere fred.
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Re: New Rope

Postby chossmonkey » Fri Mar 05, 2010 7:37 pm

Fred wrote:I had a few bad experiences with Mammut so I was turned off them for a while. I'm wondering if I should give it a try again. You like yours Shawn? I might give it a go.

It was the Galaxy duodess I had problems with.



I've had really mixed results from Mammut. I've loved some and really hated others. They have a few different types of weaves which I think makes the difference. I'm not sure which are the good weave.


We got a good deal on a Tendon rope last summer. I expected to fall apart pretty quick but is is holding up really well. I think it has a good hand. The catch was a lot harder than our mangled old Blue Water, but has either softened or Bec has learned to be a better belayer.
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Re: New Rope

Postby martha » Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:26 am

chossmonkey wrote: The catch was a lot harder than our mangled old Blue Water, but has either softened or Bec has learned to be a better belayer.


Is Rebecca a better belayer or have you just been married long enough now that she isn't quite so careful with you? :lol:
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Re: New Rope

Postby STeveA » Tue Mar 09, 2010 2:14 pm

My Sterling 9.2 single rope is up there with the best ropes I have owned (and I have owned a lot). It is a duodess, dry rope that can be used as a single or double. It handles well, holds knots and is light.
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Re: New Rope

Postby Burley » Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:25 am

I agree with Steve on Sterling... my doubles are the best feeling ropes I've used. My next single will be a Sterling... probably similar to the rope that Steve has.

They have no signs of ware after a few trips and some Weslford mileage... unlike other ropes I've had.

Aren't Gri Gri's for ropes 10mm or more ;)
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Re: New Rope

Postby Fred » Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:39 am

where might I purchase some said Sterling ropes?? :)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Rope

Postby Burley » Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:58 pm

Fred,

You can buy here:
http://www.sterlingrope.com
http://www.rockcreek.com
http://www.backcountry.com

I'm think I'll be getting the Evolution Velocity BiColor - non dry 60m.

You can pick up an Evolution Velocity (one pattern) non dry 60m for $169 on Backcountry.com....click below...

http://www.backcountry.com/outdoorgear/ ... 0028M.html

Have them sent to C&E Feeds in Calais.
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Re: New Rope

Postby STeveA » Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:38 pm

Burley wrote:Aren't Gri Gri's for ropes 10mm or more ;)


The skinnies are definately not good for Gri Gri use, but who really uses them anyway!
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Re: New Rope

Postby Murph » Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:46 pm

I'm in the market for a new rope. I just sent a Maxim 9.9 glider back to MEC and got a full refund, awesome service. It was falling apart on me with moderate use, good rope if you only climb overhanging sport. I'm looking for something in the 9.8 - 10.0 range however I could use the refund towards 3 cams, tempting :?
-"Why do this instead of a 5.13 sport climb?"
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Re: New Rope

Postby Fred » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:03 am

Murph:

Did you tell MEC that you thought that rope was unsafe? I've tried to add my two cents in the customer review part on their website but they didn't post it.

Fred
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Rope

Postby chossmonkey » Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:30 pm

It takes a while for them to post reviews. How long ago did you post it?
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Re: New Rope

Postby Fred » Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:27 pm

In the fall.

My review said that the rope was, IMO, not safe. They probably didn't like that.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Rope

Postby Murph » Wed Apr 21, 2010 4:58 pm

My order from MEC arrived and I am the new owner of an Eldrid Hawk 10.0. I've yet to use it outside however I'd like to note the the factory middle mark is USELESS! They use black ink to mark a black/dark purple/dark blue rope. In excellent lighting conditions it is barely visible and I've lost track of the middle while holding on to it. Until I find a better way to mark it, I will be feeding both ends to find the middle. Has anyone had luck using water based/ acrylic paint?
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Re: New Rope

Postby Fred » Wed Apr 21, 2010 6:06 pm

orange fluorescent spray paint!!
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: New Rope

Postby martha » Thu Apr 22, 2010 2:30 pm

you could just put a little cut in the sheeth so that you can see the point where it is fraying a bit. :mrgreen:
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Re: New Rope

Postby Murph » Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:45 pm

martha wrote:you could just put a little cut in the sheeth so that you can see the point where it is fraying a bit. :mrgreen:


How not to mark your rope

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=496597;search_string=acrylic;#496597
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