first female 9a

For all the motormouths who just need to spray.

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Postby Guest » Tue Mar 08, 2005 7:29 pm

mike wrote:I'm not much of a boulderer- I prefer to be in the mountains.

Can anyone explain the UIAA grades on the chart for me?

From what I know UIAA grade VI is pretty hard and UIAA grade VII is really hard and somewhat debatable- 'Superunknown' on baffin island being one of the first climbs to be graded at UIAA VII- that route was something like A5, 5.12c and took 31 days.

How does bouldering fit into the same grading system- or is it the same grading system?

Mike


i believe such a rating is a rating of the level of commitment of a climb. a combination of many factors will affect it... ie., remoteness, altitude, difficulty of climbing, season, etc

but i'm no mountaineer... anyone?
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Postby mathieu » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:04 pm

From first site to pop up on google with the search words alpine grading system
Grade I - Requires 1-2 hours
Grade II - Requires half a day
Grade III - Requires most of a day
Grade IV - Requires a very long day
Grade V - Requires an overnight stay on the route
Grade VI - Requires a few days
Grade VII - Expedition

So seing that boulder problems are on average 6 moves long and it takes you about a second a move we are talking then 6 second problems. I don't think it is relative to this scale.

The above explanation of the commitment scale is actually not really accurate. Today I was looking at the ice climbing in the rockies book. My friend had suggested we do Slipstream sometime this week. He had never heard of it and just saw a couple of pictures on a conditions site. Well lets just say the pictures were taken at the easier part of the climb. The technical rating of this climb is not inhuman @ WI4+ but the commitment is Grade VI. According to the scale above that means it takes a few days. Wrong for this climb. It is graded that way because there is a huge serac (hanging wall of ice which is part of the glacier) which hangs over your head for most of the climb therefore posing a danger which you have no control over. Another reason for the grade is that the route is a km long. Take Waterfall wall and climb it over 40 times that's how long this is. Check it out for yourself. Its the route that is on the left hand side to the left of the butress/arete. Oh and by the way, supposedly someone soloed it in 2 hours. Cwazy schfuckers
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Postby mike » Wed Mar 09, 2005 8:56 am

Wow- really nice looking line! These new age speed climbers are amazing- 2 hours- nutty.

Weird about the graging system though- it can't be the same system- simply not the same.
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