Kentucky road trip Beta...

For all the motormouths who just need to spray.

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

Ben Smith will meet his wife at a Strip Bar?

Don't you know Ben's already married...
1
7%
Everyone needs a sugar mama
5
36%
Pole dancers make good climbers...so yes
3
21%
what the hell are you talking about
2
14%
Polls are sweet
3
21%
 
Total votes : 14

Kentucky road trip Beta...

Postby Danger » Thu Dec 14, 2006 1:14 pm

Going there soon...
Know barely anything except they have good pizza?

Just looking for info on where to camp, buy guide book, route recommendation, and any interesting local points of excitment (ie local good beer, strip bars, cool sites etc...)
Danger
 
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:26 pm

Postby tracstarr » Thu Dec 14, 2006 2:33 pm

not much there from what i know. you can tent in the back of the pizza shop. migells i think it's called. there is a little store to buy beer. don't think there is much else. I've got the red river ruckus video, but it's here with me on the west coast and i'm not back until the weekend sometime
User avatar
tracstarr
 
Posts: 495
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 7:26 am
Location: at my desk

Postby mathieu » Thu Dec 14, 2006 2:47 pm

The trad is sweet, the sport is sweet, the pizza is great, the showers are cheap and the booze is illegal. Train for 45degree roofs and you should be able to climb rain or shine, the climbing is steep and juggy. What kind of beta are you looking for?
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby Fred » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:11 pm

camping is at Miguel's Pizza central to all the climbing. You will need a car to go from crag to crag. Let us know what kind of climbing you like and we can give you route recommendations.

check out http://www.redriverclimbing.com for online guidebook

You can buy the new guidebook from MEC but I'm certain they will have it at Miguel's too.

24h drive from Fredericton
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby mathieu » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:51 pm

Avoid long weekends...
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby martha » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:43 am

mathieu wrote:Avoid long weekends...


and gun toting rednecks....

there are lots of them.............
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby granite_grrl » Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:35 am

You looking for sport, trad or bouldering? What kind of grades are you looking for? New guide book is pretty simple, at the start of each cliff section it gives a grade and style break down of the routes there. If they don't have the book at MEC you should be able to pick it up at Miguels when you get there. Most routes are awesome there, if it has a high star rating then you're good to go.

Other things of interest: Miguels is in a dry county, so either pick up your beer on the way or you'll have to make a trip down to the beer trailer when you get there. I have also heard of car break ins in the past. Don't tempt them, try to put as much as you can out of sight in your trunk.
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON

Postby seanT » Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:49 am

Ben, I have a copy of the guidebook at the gym you can borrow if you want. Its a older version but still has good beta. The temps are pretty low right now there and a lot of the climbing is in shaded amphitheatres. brrrrrrr.Sunny areas....Torent falls, Roadside, left flank & miliatary wall. Never been to the 'Lode. or any of the newer areas. As far as beer goes the Gorge is a dry county so you will have to drive a bit to get beer. BUT the Red is the only place in the world you can get Ale8 soda and it will do more for you than a whole keg. We lived on that flowers when we used to go there. (please bring me back a sixpack i am jonesing) Miguels may be closed He used to close up after mid november when I used to go there but you could still camp there. You can also bivy for free in the parking area across from Roadside crag.
Routes to get on
AWOL
Row champeaux
crazy fingers
fuzzy undercling
king me
bare metal teen
table of colours
twinkie
just a small tick list everyone of those routes is awsome.
Do not i repeat do not wear tight pants anywhere in the Gorge the hillbillies are there and you WILL hear the sound of banjo's.
Have a killer trip.
seanT
 
Posts: 505
Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:39 am

Postby mathieu » Fri Dec 15, 2006 11:33 am

FYI: Torrent Falls is now closed
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby Danger » Fri Dec 15, 2006 2:52 pm

Thanks for all the info... this Ale8 you speak of sounds fascinating, mix with tequila and apply vigorously?....

I'm looking for mostly Trad well protected in the 10-11ish range... and sport somewhere in there as well. And maybe some really easy 5.6ish multipitch...
Danger
 
Posts: 129
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 1:26 pm

Postby mathieu » Fri Dec 15, 2006 3:14 pm

For Trad go to Fortress wall

Bedtime for Bonzo: 2P highly recommended
Callipso 1 and 2: single pitch but very nice
Party Time: 2P best trad route I did while there.

Best memory of Kentucky: We met some nice locals at the bottom of Party Time that offered some real kentucky blue grass. Shortly afterward we started talking and he asked us where we're from: "Yous from Canada, lucky devils, how far a drive is it to Baffin Island"
Great folk
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby chossmonkey » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:36 pm

mathieu wrote:FYI: Torrent Falls is now closed



As is the camping across from Roadside Crag.
If women ruled the world there would be no wars, just be a bunch of jealous countries not talking to each other.
User avatar
chossmonkey
 
Posts: 1243
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:11 pm
Location: Running a muck.

Postby Fred » Sat Dec 16, 2006 9:51 am

seanT wrote:Row champeaux


Ro Shampo
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB


Return to General

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 55 guests

cron