anchor suggestions?

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anchor suggestions?

Postby Jordyyy » Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:07 pm

i use the sliding x usually. anyone have any tips/suggestions for anything better or that they prefer?
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Re: anchor suggestions?

Postby martha » Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:29 am

Do a quick search on the forum, lots of anchor talk in previous threads. :)
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Re: anchor suggestions?

Postby *Chris* » Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:49 pm

Not sure if you're interested but the UNB rock n ice club will be holding an anchoring course sometime in early April. Details will be posted here when they are finalized. Cheers.
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Re: anchor suggestions?

Postby Eager » Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:35 pm

While timely and efficient the "magic x" anchor will extend if one of the anchors breaks, and can shock load the remaining anchor. It serves a purpose as a multi directional self minding anchor and may be suitable if there are no questions with anchor strength (bolts, large trees, bombproof placements). However, if building an anchor of two or three marginal gear placements or ice screws it is much more prudent to equalize the anchor by tieing it off with a figure 8 , so that if any piece breaks there is no extension minimizing shock load to the remaining anchors.

Freedom of the Hills is a good resource for anchors as well as the Petzl website, but proper training and experience is usually the best teacher.
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