Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:20 pm

*Chris* wrote:I'm dying to know how somebody really clever would effectively visualize this data. I know there's a great chart hiding in all that... but I'll be dammed if I can figure it how to draw it.

We've got a complex and healthy bolteconomy going on here!


Are you saying I'm not clever Chris? hehe :lol:
I'm sure one of the engineers or the scientists in the NB climbing community could come up with a chart. I will focus my energy on pounding in SS bolts.


Perhaps I should edit out the old lists and just leave the most recently updated one. What do you all think?

PeterA wrote:Tack another one to the list. The old bolts on Honey pot need to be replaced. We replaced 3 of them. There is an intermediate anchor on this route for rapping it with a 60m, it has one new and one old bolt

-PJ


I'll add it to the list. Funny that a route that has been an open project until recently needs new bolts hehe!
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby PeterA » Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:41 pm

Dom wrote:
Perhaps I should edit out the old lists and just leave the most recently updated one. What do you all think?



I could keep an updated list of the ones that still need equipping in the first post if you would like

-PJ
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby PeterA » Wed Aug 03, 2011 1:44 pm

hehe just saw that you were a moderator too, nevermind :oops:

-PJ
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Fred » Wed Aug 03, 2011 6:51 pm

I like your list Dom. I like reading through it and seeing all the hard work you guys did.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby theriault » Wed Aug 03, 2011 9:08 pm

I climbed "The Waltz" on Sunday (one of the best 5.10 in my book!) the cordelette anchor on the tree is in bad shape ( aka is cut 1/4 of the way on both strands), I did not have a knife with me and I could not undo the knot... be careful..... I should change it this weekend
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:54 am

theriault wrote:I climbed "The Waltz" on Sunday (one of the best 5.10 in my book!) the cordelette anchor on the tree is in bad shape ( aka is cut 1/4 of the way on both strands), I did not have a knife with me and I could not undo the knot... be careful..... I should change it this weekend


chewed by a rodent?
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby theriault » Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:05 am

Maybe.....anyone opposed to putting a bolted anchor up there? Luc and I scouted a perfect location......
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:57 am

I say do it, as long as it doesn't change the nature of the route. That way It'll save a nice Pine tree. :mrgreen:

Fred should have a say since one of his routes finishes on that tree. (Le miel est plus doux que le sang) which is also a real nice route.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Fred » Thu Aug 04, 2011 4:36 pm

If the tree is healthy I would vote to see the tat replaced in lieu of bolt anchor.

my two cents
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby theriault » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:18 am

new work done...

-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Josiane St-Coeur
-Bugs Bunny rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Josiane St-Coeur
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:49 am

theriault wrote:new work done...

-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Josiane St-Coeur
-Bugs Bunny rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Josiane St-Coeur
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker



f'in eh!, looney tune wall done! That is great as these routes see a fair bit of traffic!
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Sat Aug 27, 2011 8:18 pm

I rebolted the 6 old bolts of Slippery when wet and added an anchor. Hardware was provided by Zach T.
I also saw that the webbing on the waterfall layback anchor was mangled so I installed a new bolted anchor for that popular climb. Hardware was provided by Calvin T.

the list is getting shorter :mrgreen:



-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Honey Pot
-Waterfall arête
-Waterfall Layback anchor added by Dom, hardware donated by Calvin T.
-Tit for Tat
-About a rope anchor added by Chris N., hardware donated by Marcelle
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by Rob L.
-The Central Scrutinizer rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Perfect rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Witches
-Talamasca
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Josiane St-Coeur
-Bugs Bunny rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Josiane St-Coeur
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet anchor added and rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Rob L.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.
-Think pure thoughts (1 bolt+ anchor)
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby *Chris* » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:15 am

It'll be a few weeks before I'm back in Welsford but I'll put an anchor in at Ejaculator. The tree is looking in pretty sad shape. It's lost about 1/2 of it's crown and I suspect the base of the trunk has rot. We rapped off it yesterday and it held. YMMV.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Stacey » Mon Sep 19, 2011 9:24 pm

That is an awesome route, I hope to get back on it this fall sometime.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby theriault » Wed Sep 21, 2011 7:19 am

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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:17 am

*Chris* wrote:It'll be a few weeks before I'm back in Welsford but I'll put an anchor in at Ejaculator. The tree is looking in pretty sad shape. It's lost about 1/2 of it's crown and I suspect the base of the trunk has rot. We rapped off it yesterday and it held. YMMV.



Hey Chris let me know if you need rap rings. I still have some that were donated for the rebolting effort.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Wed Sep 21, 2011 9:20 am

theriault wrote:Hangers would be needed for the rebolting effort if anyone has some to spare....
http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/ ... hanger.jsp
http://www.mec.ca/AST/ShopMEC/Climbing/ ... hanger.jsp
http://www.lacordee.com/eng/product/fix ... anger/9548

thanks in advance!


Agreed that we need hangers.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby theriault » Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:25 pm

Rainy day....

rap ring are missing (we currently don't have any) maillons are there and will be replace when we get the hardware....

-Witches rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by S. Kruse
-Talamasca rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by S. Kruse

Forman F. Bérubé was supervising the job site and did a lot of trail maintenance!
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Stacey » Sun Oct 02, 2011 10:04 pm

You guys must have gotten SOAKED!

Nice work taking one for the team :) Thanks for your efforts!
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:19 am

Good job!

The list:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Honey Pot
-Waterfall arête
-Waterfall Layback anchor added by Dom, hardware donated by Calvin T.
-Tit for Tat
-About a rope anchor added by Chris N., hardware donated by Marcelle
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by Rob L.
-The Central Scrutinizer rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Perfect rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Witches rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Talamasca rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Bugs Bunny rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet anchor added and rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Rob L.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor anchor rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Rob L.
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.
-Think pure thoughts (1 bolt+ anchor)
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:35 am

Hey I rebolted the sketchy anchor on Flight of the Valkyries last night. Hardware was donated by Zach T. from Moncton. If you haven't been on this route, it's a welsford top 5 in my book. Enjoy!
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:05 pm

2011 is done and tons of routes have been rebolted.
Thanks to all who have contributed.

While I offered to rebolt a lot of routes, I'm short 136$ because one 'contributor' never ended up picking up the tab for routes he said he would cover. So if anyone that hasn't contributed would help me pick up the tab, it would be great. Any amount would help. (Your name would replace his on the list.) A lot of names from the community are missing on this list. It's not much for the benefit we get out of climbing on brand new bolts. The hardware on a lot of Welsford routes will be good for another 50+ years :D .

Again, thanks to those who contributed over the years to make Welsford an awesome area.


The final 2011 list:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Honey Pot
-Waterfall arête
-Waterfall Layback anchor added by Dom, hardware donated by Calvin T.
-Tit for Tat
-About a rope anchor added by Chris N., hardware donated by Marcelle
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by ???
-The Central Scrutinizer rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Perfect rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by ???
-Witches rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Talamasca rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Bugs Bunny rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet anchor added and rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by ???
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor anchor rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by ???
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.
-Think pure thoughts (1 bolt+ anchor)
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Sat Dec 03, 2011 9:15 am

A big thanks to Stef K. who offered to donate for the hardware of Sleeping Beauty, Rock Opera and Joint Venture and Stacey for donating the hardware to cover Steal your face.

Thanks guys!

I think the 'project' will be renewed next year, thanks to everyone's efforts and donations.

Here is the final list for 2011:

-Leviathan rebolted by Dom, Marty, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Pursuit of hapiness (1 bolt) rebolted by Marty,Dom, Luc; hardware donated by Steve K
-Granite planet (intermediate anchor)
-Honey Pot
-Waterfall arête
-Waterfall Layback anchor added by Dom, hardware donated by Calvin T.
-Tit for Tat
-About a rope anchor added by Chris N., hardware donated by Marcelle
-Montezuma's rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
- Spiderman (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Dykes on bikes (1 bolt)
-Tipsy
-Rock Opera rebolted by Chris N., hardware donated by Stef K.
-The Central Scrutinizer rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Perfect rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Graham W.
-Shredded wheat (1 bolt) rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Greg K
-Joint venture rebolted by Luc and Dom, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Witches rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Talamasca rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Stef K.
-Be still my bleeding heart
-Tweety bird anchor changed by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Taz rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Bugs Bunny rebolted and hardware donated by Marty
-Yosemite Sam rebolted by Marty, hardware donated by Paul Baker
-Wile E Coyote/Agent Orange Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Hole in My pocket Anchor added by Luc, Dom and Marty, hardware donated by Dom and Luc
-Trouble with Lichen rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Farewell to arms rebolted+ anchor added by Marty and Luc, hardware donated by Greg K. and Marty
-The Juggler rebolted by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Steve K.
-Grandpa's demise
-Slippery when wet anchor added and rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Spark start (anchor) anchor replaced,rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Sleeping beauty rebolted+ anchor by Marty, Dom and Luc, hardware donated by Stef K.
- Telefunken U-47 Rebolted + anchor and hardware donated by Dom 2009
-Reno Dyhedro rebolted and hardware donated by Dave Peabody 2009
-Reindeer land- anchor rebolted by Greg, hardware donated by Chris N.
-Flight of the Valkyries anchor anchor rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Zach T.
-Steal your face rebolted by Dom, hardware donated by Stacey
-Feathers
-Prairie-Wolf
-DDT Missing bolts replaced by Greg H.
-Think pure thoughts (1 bolt+ anchor)
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby austinconrad » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:08 pm

Hey I'd be willing to donate some hardware to anyone looking to replace some sketchy bolts/rap rings :) I climb on this stuff so it seems to only make sense that I contribute something to it! It also doesn't seem fair that everyone uses this stuff and only some pay for it. I'll ask around to see if anyone else is interested in doing the same.

Send me a PM if you're interested
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby theriault » Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:34 pm

climb650 wrote:Hey I'd be willing to donate some hardware


if you want to get us some hardware to install, check earlier in this tread there's a list of what we need
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby CaliMan » Sun Dec 11, 2011 5:33 pm

How much objection would there to putting a donation box for rebolting in gyms in the area? Envelopes with cheques/cash could be accepted. A cash box might not be the best idea. We could have a paypal account and wire up a donation icon for use on websites, or even facebook.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Fred » Mon Dec 12, 2011 12:27 pm

I don't see how anyone could object to that, it's a great idea.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Mon Dec 12, 2011 1:13 pm

CaliMan wrote:How much objection would there to putting a donation box for rebolting in gyms in the area? Envelopes with cheques/cash could be accepted. A cash box might not be the best idea. We could have a paypal account and wire up a donation icon for use on websites, or even facebook.


Agreed. it's a great idea. Also, the box could accommodate bolts, hangers, rings, etc. Maybe we would need two boxes hehe.

As for the paypal account, it's also a great idea. I don't know if you'd be willing to be the paypal account trustee Calvin?
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby CaliMan » Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:45 pm

I could do that. Should it be someone in the club exec? Would it be outside club jurisdiction?
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Re: Rusty bolts in Cochrane Lane

Postby Dom » Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:05 pm

CaliMan wrote:I could do that. Should it be someone in the club exec? Would it be outside club jurisdiction?


Haha I feel like starting a club and hardware debate but I won't. It falls outside club jurisdiction since the club never got involved in the rebolting process. That being said, it would be a nice gesture from the club to have a rebolting donation box at the wall on our behalf.
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