CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

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CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Robie » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:04 am

Good Day,

I am putting the call out to the crack squad of keen UNB climbers who would like to come to the CFB Gagetown lead wall and set some new routes. I have stripped the wall, cleaned, and separated the holds, and rented a scissor lift from 6-10 pm on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday of next week (18-20 Aug). Any and all help would be greatly appreciated and if this works out I will look into renting this equipment on a more frequent basis in an effort to revitalize the somewhat stagnate base climbing gym.

Thanks again, and I hope to see some eager climbers on Tuesday

-->Robie

P.S. feel free to bring another cordless drill and bit, mine is crapping out

I also sent an email to climbunb@gmail.com, but forgot to spell check it … how embarrassing
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Fred » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:30 am

the club email is climb@unb.ca me thinks
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Fri Aug 14, 2009 9:45 am

That's a great idea Robie. Thanks for taking this on. Those routes have been up for at least 6 years! Will be AWESOME to be able to set some routes.
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby *Chris* » Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:35 am

I'll drive in tonight to give you a hand Robie.
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:23 am

I'm planning on going in Thursday.
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Ken P » Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:36 am

I'm hoping tonight and/or Thursday.
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Thu Aug 20, 2009 3:45 pm

trad_reborn wrote:I'm planning on going in Thursday.


unfortunately my house inspector can't meet till 7pm. not going to be able to make it :(
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Ken P » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:19 pm

my van died :x
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby sand » Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:04 pm

did new routes ended up getting set?
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby *Chris* » Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:38 pm

Robie ended up pretty much stripping, washing, and resetting the entire wall by himself. A great effort and will be a nice change this winter.
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Tue Sep 08, 2009 7:26 am

awesome! can't wait to get down there once outdoor season is over. Thanks Robie!
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:41 am

i heard a rumour that the lead wall has no routes on it? is this true?

if not, perfect....

if it is, can we set up another time to get people in there to set routes? avec le scissor lift?
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Ken P » Sun Oct 25, 2009 3:42 pm

No color coordinated routes. :lol: Donnie was po'd :roll: :wink:

Robie are you out there?
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Sun Oct 25, 2009 7:50 pm

Spoke with Robie tonight. There are holds on the lead wall but no taped routes. And apparently it could do with putting on some more holds (foot jibs esp) so I'm gonna head in tomorrow night. Who's in?
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby sand » Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:38 am

I see that wall almost every day, but still haven't climb on the lead wall. There are very few (almost none) holds on the bottom 5-6 feet of the lead wall, so it would be great to have some added. Not all routes should be for 5.10 leaders and above and if they were, I'd like to be able to try it anyway!

I have never seen tape on any wall of that gym, do they only make routes with colored holds?
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Mon Oct 26, 2009 12:29 pm

sand wrote:I see that wall almost every day, but still haven't climb on the lead wall. There are very few (almost none) holds on the bottom 5-6 feet of the lead wall, so it would be great to have some added. Not all routes should be for 5.10 leaders and above and if they were, I'd like to be able to try it anyway!

I have never seen tape on any wall of that gym, do they only make routes with colored holds?


There were routes made from holds that were all teh same colour... and these routes were up since before i started climbing (7 years)... over the past two years we started taping routes to make it interesting again.

Robie stripped the wall and put holds back on but they're not colour-coordinated, and there are no taped routes yet so when we go tonight we can start to address this. and no, they will not all be 5.10... some will be harder :P
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby martha » Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:46 am

Hey Sandrine,

When i climb there I just use 'all holds' instead of 'routes' if I want to make it easier. Even on the most overhanging wall you can make a route of 5.8ish this way. Doesn't change the pump factor any...but at least the moves aren't difficult. :)
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Re: CFB Gagetown - Lead wall Route setting

Postby Adam » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:24 am

at the moment the lead wall is still needing more holds. we put some up last night but it is very slow going when hanging from a rope. hopefully we'll get the scissor lift again in the near future and be able to pickle it with potential.
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