Sunnyside trad

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Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:18 am

Not too words that are often used together but it does exist. I dragged my rack up there on Sunday and got on HBomb and Nuclear Sausage Particle. Gotta say that is some nice climbing. Was my first time on HBomb and I am impressed with the first overhanging hand crack. Bomber jams in there!

As it stands there are four solid trad leads to be had at Sunnyside:

Man up beaver 5.10
HBomb 5.8+
Nuclear Sausage Particle 5.8
Lightning 5.8

If you can dig up the energy, drag your rack up there and tick these climbs off they're worth the trip.
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby sand » Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:53 am

I think Jeremy and I will :)
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Stef » Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:53 am

I cleaned and did a crack to the left of H-bomb somewhere, a while back. Hand crack to awkward wide crack, 5.8ish. Obvious line. Has anyone else been on this?
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:28 am

Stef wrote:I cleaned and did a crack to the left of H-bomb somewhere, a while back. Hand crack to awkward wide crack, 5.8ish. Obvious line. Has anyone else been on this?


hmm not exactly sure where you mean. if between HBomb and radioactive rod, that is 'Adam Smasher' which has been toproped but not lead (has an anchor), or there is a bigger, dirtier crack further left that goes straight up. which do you mean?
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Stacey » Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:06 am

Wow that is awesome - - even more reason to check out Sunnyside...plus those 5.8 sport leads I wanna get on :-)

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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Shawn B » Wed Sep 16, 2009 2:04 pm

:twisted: BOLT 'EM UP!! :twisted:
Safety third!!!
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby anderfo » Wed Sep 16, 2009 3:08 pm

Adam, I thought you said you didn't like trad?
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Fred » Wed Sep 16, 2009 5:12 pm

agreed. Nice routes.

But they'd be even better bolted up a la French style. :mrgreen:
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:46 am

ha, even I have trouble bolting a route that follows a crack from the ground up.

anders - i don't really like trad but i force myself to do it. does that mean i don't like myself?
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Stacey » Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:27 am

trad_reborn wrote:ha, even I have trouble bolting a route that follows a crack from the ground up.

anders - i don't really like trad but i force myself to do it. does that mean i don't like myself?



well with an avatar picture like you have - - that is a face only a mother could love.....but we know your dreds are much better :)


:P


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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Stef » Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:26 pm

trad_reborn wrote:
Stef wrote:I cleaned and did a crack to the left of H-bomb somewhere, a while back. Hand crack to awkward wide crack, 5.8ish. Obvious line. Has anyone else been on this?


hmm not exactly sure where you mean. if between HBomb and radioactive rod, that is 'Adam Smasher' which has been toproped but not lead (has an anchor), or there is a bigger, dirtier crack further left that goes straight up. which do you mean?


Left of "Atomic wall" entirely. Not sure which routes are closest, I'll have to look at the guide when I get back to F'ton.

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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:30 am

Stef wrote:Left of "Atomic wall" entirely. Not sure which routes are closest, I'll have to look at the guide when I get back to F'ton.


there's actually another cherry line that just needs cleaning... in the middle of whether wall between thunder and lightning there's a big dirty dyke that should be pretty fun :D
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Stacey » Fri Sep 18, 2009 10:52 am

trad_reborn wrote:there's a big dirty dyke that should be pretty fun :D


sounds perverse :P
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby martha » Fri Sep 18, 2009 7:06 pm

StaceyMJCouturier wrote:
trad_reborn wrote:there's a big dirty dyke that should be pretty fun :D


sounds perverse :P



see...now I thought he was talking about you Stacey... but then I was like.. "naw...she's not that big"
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Stacey » Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:04 am

martha wrote:
StaceyMJCouturier wrote:
trad_reborn wrote:there's a big dirty dyke that should be pretty fun :D


sounds perverse :P



see...now I thought he was talking about you Stacey... but then I was like.. "naw...she's not that big"



LOL - I like to tease you ... but no 'dykeness' in me - - I promise you ;)
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby *Chris* » Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:26 am

Got on Nuclear Sausage Particle yesterday... I think. Yuck. Dirty and several large hollow blocks. Thought I was on your recommended line but apparently not. Ah well.

Whoever last led this line prior to me backed up their rap on a solid tree with a sling around pretty crappy boulder. Your boulder was anchored in dirt and moves a bit. Thus, I couldn't get your sling out since it got pinched when the boulder shifted on it. Thus, I cut it off. Sorry... but that was a bit sketch.
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Mon Oct 19, 2009 8:51 am

*Chris* wrote:Got on Nuclear Sausage Particle yesterday... I think. Yuck. Dirty and several large hollow blocks. Thought I was on your recommended line but apparently not. Ah well.


really? hmm.... i think it is a nice line. might need cleaning tho
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Fred » Mon Oct 19, 2009 11:31 am

I also thought this was a great line. Sorry you didn't enjoy it Chris. :)
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby *Chris* » Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:12 pm

It's the rightmost of the two cracks correct? Immediately left of Gamma Burst? I guess I'll try H-bomb and/or Lightning next time.
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:18 pm

yes that's it. guess you're just hard to please :)

HBomb is pretty wicked but again a big ledge halfway but worth it for the overhanging crack at the bottom...
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby changela » Tue Oct 20, 2009 5:02 am

I agree with Chris. There's a big block just below the anchor that makes a big hollow 'thunk' when you tap it with your foot ... kind of unnerving when you look down and see all the chalk marks on it. :?
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Re: Sunnyside trad

Postby Adam » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:21 am

i dont' remember it, but in any case i think the climbing is pretty wicked despite a hollow block :D
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