Route info sought:)

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Route info sought:)

Postby motanb » Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:48 pm

I recently climbed (on second) 'Crazy Yahoos Shooting flowers', 5.11d. The quality of this route impressd me very much. I think the grade of 11d is more-or-less accurate. The crux section involving tenuous smears on steep stone is truly demanding! Delicate to say the least;) Moreover, the bolts are ample and well placed.... Kudos to Dom and Cory for putting up an excellent sport route!!

Also, we climbed a new route located right of 'MacGuffin' (as you look at the wall from the bottom) that I think is approximately 5.9? It's fully bolted and provides excellent movement/holds! I have to say that this climb is my favorite moderate route at Cedar Point... A classic dare I say?? What is the name of this climb?
Thomas

"When you get to the top.... Keep climbing"

~ JaphyRyder
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Re: Route info sought:)

Postby cory » Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:32 pm

2 very nice additions indeed.

To clarify; Luc and Marty are the ones to thank. They collectively finished off Crazy Yahoos... and Luc put up Yousquer Ma Cell between MacGuffin, and Marty's new route (2 hangers missing cause it's needs a bit more cleaning) called La Mere A Luc Pis Des Burritos.

Dom put up two new short ones on the back wall.

The new guidebook for CP will be out next week. Hopefully Fred will be willing to host it again on beta-source.com
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Re: Route info sought:)

Postby Dom » Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:43 pm

motanb wrote:I recently climbed (on second) 'Crazy Yahoos Shooting flowers', 5.11d. The quality of this route impressd me very much. I think the grade of 11d is more-or-less accurate. The crux section involving tenuous smears on steep stone is truly demanding! Delicate to say the least;) Moreover, the bolts are ample and well placed.... Kudos to Dom and Cory for putting up an excellent sport route!!

Also, we climbed a new route located right of 'MacGuffin' (as you look at the wall from the bottom) that I think is approximately 5.9? It's fully bolted and provides excellent movement/holds! I have to say that this climb is my favorite moderate route at Cedar Point... A classic dare I say?? What is the name of this climb?


Hey Tom, Crazy Yahoo is indeed a really good route.
Cory et al. first got the FA on it but it sit there collecting dust and Luc with the help of Marty trundled it, bolted it and got the FFA. I only belayed Luc on the FFA so I don't deserve much credit even though my name is on the FFA.

You said the grade is more-or-less accurate. What do you think the grade should be? Luc had said 5.11+ but I prefer letter grades for sport routes so I'm the one who put 5.11d. It's so hard to grade because it's 5.8 climbing up to a 2 bolt delicate crux.

Now to answer your question for the new route, The name of it is Yousqué ta cell? and was also bolted and trundled by Luc G. He got the FA when the route was wet and was about to hop on for the FFA when a rainstorm hit. So he came back another day with Marty for the FFA. Marty had lost his cell at CL that day Hence the name (Where is your cell?). We thought the grade was around 5.10b because it seems like it's harder than Tequila and Limestone to the right which is 5.10a. I've only toproped it before it was sent and I agree that it will become a classic. The moves are really fun in the crux. So you think it's 5.9? I guess we'll wait a little bit before giving it a consensus grade. It's def. in the 5.9/10- range though IMO.
So much rock, so little time
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Re: Route info sought:)

Postby Dom » Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:46 pm

Seems like Cory beat me to it :mrgreen:
So much rock, so little time
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