Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl
shannon wrote:I think I might be more inclined to use resin (like that for fibreglass) to create textures on the wall, leaving clean smooth areas for where the holds go.
-mod.
mitchleblanc wrote:shannon wrote:I think I might be more inclined to use resin (like that for fibreglass) to create textures on the wall, leaving clean smooth areas for where the holds go.
-mod.
It's a good idea, but textured walls are useless for training. You don't *want* holds in the same spots all the time. You can texture a wall to look like a dinosaur or something for the kids, but you're wasting your time otherwise, in my opinion.
shannon wrote:I think a textured wall is good for smooshing for the feet. Make little ridges, et al. Really fine features that typical foot holds jsut can't do.
Next problem would be to rate the problems after they were created. Hardest I can do at this point is a 5.8. There's always the more simple rating method of Can do and can't do yet.
shannon
mitchleblanc wrote:shannon wrote:I think a textured wall is good for smooshing for the feet. Make little ridges, et al. Really fine features that typical foot holds jsut can't do.
Next problem would be to rate the problems after they were created. Hardest I can do at this point is a 5.8. There's always the more simple rating method of Can do and can't do yet.
shannon
I disgree... screw on jibs or foot chips or whatever they call them are more than sufficient. If you have texture on your wall (I mean, like grit, not textured, moulded surfaces) then an step between jibs and "really fine features" is unecessary. Just smear, if you want a foothold so small that a jib won't do!
As for rating.. I wouldn't worry about that. Just use a rating system from 1 to X, where the higher the number the harder it is. As long as you're consistent, it doesn't matter what the actual grade is...
adam wrote:granite_grrl wrote:As far as I know there has been no problems with them spinning,
there wouldn't be a spinning problem with screw ons unless you only used a single screw.... i was just talking about bolt ons..
granite_grrl wrote:My brain's running a little slow today, I'm not having a very good time with the Union at work..... I guess I should have said something like - "they don't seem to have a problem torqueing or twisting". They are larger holds and the screws are placed closer to the center.
adam wrote:granite_grrl wrote:My brain's running a little slow today, I'm not having a very good time with the Union at work..... I guess I should have said something like - "they don't seem to have a problem torqueing or twisting". They are larger holds and the screws are placed closer to the center.
don't let the union get you down![]()
i see... yah, if a big hold was screwed on with the screws all being close to center then yah, you'd prob be able to torque it off... point taken. whose design was that ??
Anonymous wrote:Grades: I won't grade any routes/problems I set. If someone really wants a grade then we'll grab a few people and try to get a consensus. In any area route grades are subjective (gyms or outside). If you found that the 5.9 was too easy get on the 10a, or vise versa.
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