Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Check-in here to get all the latest info on climbing gyms in Eastern Canada.

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby NB_Gecko » Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:34 pm

I was browsing on 8a.nu, and a question hit me:

How are people categorizing their climbs?

How can an outdoor climb be categorized as an onsight? I understand redpoint, flash, top rope and all that. I was just wondering how a onisght would work.

Would someone just "tell" the climber of a route somewhere? No beta and you can't look at the climb, so wouldn't that mean no guidebooks?

Just curious
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby Climbing4life » Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:49 pm

NB_Gecko wrote:I was browsing on 8a.nu, and a question hit me:

How are people categorizing their climbs?

How can an outdoor climb be categorized as an onsight? I understand redpoint, flash, top rope and all that. I was just wondering how a onisght would work.

Would someone just "tell" the climber of a route somewhere? No beta and you can't look at the climb, so wouldn't that mean no guidebooks?

Just curious


ya it would be no previous knowledge of the route , other than the grade i beleive.
"Death was Nature's way of telling you to slow down."
-- Terry Pratchett (Strata, 1981)
User avatar
Climbing4life
 
Posts: 220
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:13 pm
Location: Rothesay

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby NB_Gecko » Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:01 pm

Climbing4life wrote:
NB_Gecko wrote:I was browsing on 8a.nu, and a question hit me:

How are people categorizing their climbs?

How can an outdoor climb be categorized as an onsight? I understand redpoint, flash, top rope and all that. I was just wondering how a onisght would work.

Would someone just "tell" the climber of a route somewhere? No beta and you can't look at the climb, so wouldn't that mean no guidebooks?

Just curious


ya it would be no previous knowledge of the route , other than the grade i beleive.



That's what I mean though. Then how'd a climber find it, know where to go on it, and where the top was.
I understand onsights at gyms and comps... cause they have no previous knowledge of the route. Right up until they're face to face with itand have to climb it. Competitors aren't even aloud to see it walking up to the problem.

So does that mean climbers are blindfolded hiking uo to a cliff? (I know they're not, just making a point)
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby Climbing4life » Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:25 pm

No blindfolds needed , you just can`t know the details of the route and you cant have tried it or ask anyone who has what to do.
"Death was Nature's way of telling you to slow down."
-- Terry Pratchett (Strata, 1981)
User avatar
Climbing4life
 
Posts: 220
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:13 pm
Location: Rothesay

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby NB_Gecko » Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:35 pm

Jeesh... The climbing community is a trusting one.

It must suck going to onsight something, about as difficult as avoiding a SuperBowl score because you missed the game. :mrgreen:
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby martha » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:22 pm

most guidebooks say little about the routes in question. Thus an Onsight is any route that you've never climbed and you lead ground up no falls the first time. A guidebook might say, 'a pumpy 40M climb with 7 bolts' 'or follow the small holds to an arete and climb 25m to the top'
That isn't enough info to ruin an onsight. Trust me.

the terms aren't used indoors except perhaps for Comps. since afterall... indoor climbing isn't 'real' climbing anyways.. just something to do in the off season or when it rains. ;)
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby NB_Gecko » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:27 pm

oh ok, see the guidebook thing was confusing me. I guess that it's a good point that you don't get enough info on it.

So a belayer (on a sport route where the climber comes back down) would get a flash instead of an onsight?
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby NB_Gecko » Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:28 pm

NB_Gecko wrote:oh ok, see the guidebook thing was confusing me. I guess that it's a good point that you don't get enough info on it.

So a belayer (on a sport route where the climber comes back down) would get a flash instead of an onsight?



If said belayer was to give the route a go after.
"I saw that ! Grabbing the pro — two meters of penalty slack !"
"Blood /n./ substance commonly used to mark a climbing route."
User avatar
NB_Gecko
 
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:08 pm
Location: Quispamsis, New Brunswick

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby granite_grrl » Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:17 am

NB_Gecko wrote:So a belayer (on a sport route where the climber comes back down) would get a flash instead of an onsight?


Most of the time, yes. If the belayer couldn't gather anything from the route from the previous climber I suposse they could still claim an onsight, but this now enters a grey zone and requires the climber to be honest with themselves.
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby *Chris* » Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:47 am

...and after much debate and internal strife, you've got to ask the question: "Why does it matter?" Anyway, if you're really stuck on a fuzzy question like this just do what I do, round up!

Flash/Onsight? = Onsight
Redpoint/Pinkpoint? = Redpoint
Free/A0? = Free

Heck, if I climb an easy top rope I'll usually round that up to a lead cause I know I could if I had to.

Hope that clears things up! :wink:
User avatar
*Chris*
 
Posts: 848
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: Fredericton

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby martha » Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:17 am

*Chris* wrote:
Heck, if I climb an easy top rope I'll usually round that up to a lead cause I know I could if I had to.

Hope that clears things up! :wink:



Oh you've made things Crystal Clear... that we can't believe a friggen word you say about anything to do with climbing! :wink:
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby STeveA » Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:32 pm

The best thing is to blindfold the belayer and put muffs on his ears. That way you do not ruin the onsight for him(her). You should probably make sure that there is lots of slack in the rope so that they do not get any feedback that might help them either.
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
User avatar
STeveA
 
Posts: 570
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:07 am

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby martha » Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:33 pm

That is good advice Steve, nice of you to send your boys up as your rope gun. ;) Keepin' em safe eh? :lol: :lol:
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby STeveA » Mon Mar 31, 2008 6:55 am

Thats why I have 2 boys, at least 1 spare!
You are, therefore I am. That is the question....
User avatar
STeveA
 
Posts: 570
Joined: Thu May 26, 2005 9:07 am

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby chossmonkey » Mon Mar 31, 2008 11:15 am

STeveA wrote:Thats why I have 2 boys, at least 1 spare!



Now that is thinking! :lol:


You can also have the advantage of not needing to belay since you have one to hang draws and the other to belay. For that matter, I hope you make them carry all the gear so you just need to take a very small pack. :D

Bec and I might need to rethink the whole never have kids idea.
If women ruled the world there would be no wars, just be a bunch of jealous countries not talking to each other.
User avatar
chossmonkey
 
Posts: 1243
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:11 pm
Location: Running a muck.

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby granite_grrl » Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:38 pm

chossmonkey wrote:Bec and I might need to rethink the whole never have kids idea.


No, we don't.

Besides, why do I need another draw monkey? Why do you think I keep you around? :roll:
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON

Re: Categorizing your climbs (flash, onsight, redoint)

Postby martha » Mon Mar 31, 2008 3:28 pm

Honestly Rebecca, you might want to re-think that... Kids are WAY easier to deal with than husbands.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....


Return to Gyms / Training

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest